In a culinary landscape increasingly dominated by meat-free fare, steakhouses find themselves in unchartered waters. Relevancy – and appeal – are no longer a given, but establishments like American Cut rise to the challenge. Now in its second Manhattan location on E 56th Street, Marc Forgione’s successful chain delivers an indelible steakhouse experience with thoughtful, contemporary dishes that deliver mass appeal.
The sprawling, 130-seat Art Deco space aptly reflects the grandiose menu of gargantuan steaks, sides, and fish. Traditional starters like wedge salad ($16) and steak tartare ($19) mingle with shrimp cocktail ($18) smothered in muddled horseradish with wasabi and mustard, deep-fried soft-shell crab sliders ($MP) that while toothsome, are somewhat sloppy to enjoy, and a luxurious chili lobster ($34) that balances tang, acidity, and spice to harmonious effect – A deluge of claw meat served in a sriracha butter sauce with hints of ginger and lime, soaking up every last drop with the accompanying Texas toast is mandatory.
A modest selection of fish including cedar plank salmon ($31) and tuna with tomato vierge ($36) offer alternatives to the gracious line-up of meats, among them a 20oz kosher, boneless rib eye ($64), beef short ribs ($37), and the requisite surf & turf ($175). But it’s the porterhouse for two ($109) that proves most palatable – Superbly seared to medium-rare, the lean and flavorful filet bounces into your mouth as if sprung from a trampoline, while the lusciously fatty strip pairs delectably with sauces like champagne vinaigrette Béarnaise and the gravy-like peppercorn enhanced with veal demi.
Ample sides add further muscle, standouts being the sweet and spicy “sausage n’ peppas” ($12) with shishito peppers and bang bang sauce, and the delightfully silky creamed spinach ($12) with pureed sunchokes in place of béchamel. And if there’s any appetite left, a playful array of desserts like a Crackerjack sundae ($12) and candy bar cake ($12) complete the splashy – and satisfying – experience.
BY TIME OUT COMMUNITY REVIEWER: CHRISTINE FISCHER HEWIT