This top Soho spot is all kinds of fun in a relaxed but lively environment and menus that wink at its local favorite dive bar predecessor by the same name. Divided into “dive” and “high dive” categories, Milady’s evening fare includes a $30 caviar dip with crème fraîche, egg, red onion, dill and about half an ounce of domestic caviar. A full ounce addition is available for $65 more for high (egg) rollers.
Synonymity with luxury aside, caviar can be inscrutable. It’s roe, sure, but those pearly little fish eggs appear on menus under that gilded name whether they’re the lower-priced, bright and bubbly steelhead trout variety, spendier, tight and inky ossetra-type or tip-top market beluga breed.
Technically, caviar is supposed to be wild sturgeon-derived. But the way its title is used is closer to how we use “speakeasy” than, say, “Champagne.” Most of what’s called caviar looks enough like the real deal to make believe, and, if you are playing pretend, it’s unlikely anybody’s going to come and crush your illusions . . . or your actual goods like what happened in a recent row over the legally-protected name of a certain sparkling white wine.
Regardless, the stuff is expensive, stretching into hundreds of dollars as standalone items in NYC restaurants, appearing for not much less as supplements on tasting menus and adding dollar signs to other foodstuffs—potato interpretations, pasta, chicken eggs several ways—all around town. But the best way to have caviar is as the main event.
Skipping appearances as glancing garnishes, imperceptible ingredients or obvious extravagance afterthoughts, there are a few places where you can grab cavi in more-or-less featured form for a little less cash. Sure, some amount to just a few bites, but most are under $30 for at least a taste of one of the world’s most famous finer things.
