21 Greenpoint

After shuttering their popular Greenpoint restaurant River Styx in August, owners Sydney Silver and Homer Murray—yes, Bill’s son—have flipped the space into a more upscale seasonal spot, helmed by chef Sean Telo (Extra Fancy, Atlanta’s Miller Union). The room has been freshened up with a new bar that has a mirrored back wall, sectioned-off nooks decorated with vintage wallpaper and a wood-burning oven surrounded by circular shelves toting cookbooks, jars of preserved vegetables and excess firewood. From the open kitchen, Telo plates raw porgy with blush plum and fish skin, smoked-cabbage pierogi with Walla Walla onion and black butter, and Hudson Valley foie gras fried rice with linguiça sausage and two eggs. The oven turns out pizzas like a clam pie with pecorino and guanciale, and mushrooms with raclette and hot wax peppers; and at the bar, find cocktails from bar director Sean Patrick McClure (Daniel, Dirty French), like a cucumber Vesper with celery shrub and lemon oils.