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This new chef’s counter in midtown is all about kimchi

Raon is now open.

Morgan Carter
Written by
Morgan Carter
Food & Drink Editor
A gimbap roll on a white plate
Photograph: Evan Sung | | Uni Gamtae Gimbap
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After training under Daniel Boulud for seven years and working as an executive chef at Hanjan, chef Soogil Lim and his wife, Sassok Youn, opened their first restaurant in the East Village, Soogil. Initially debuting as a casual affair in 2018, the restaurant switched to set tasting menus that reflect chef Lim’s cooking journey in French kitchens and his translation of Korean ingredients. When approaching their second, the couple looked to dive even deeper into their shared Korean heritage. And now, one of our most anticipated openings of the year is open.

A wooden counter with white walls
Photograph: Evan Sung| Counter at RAON

Translating to “joyful” or “amusing,” Raon grounds itself around a staple of Korean culture: kimchi. Found at the tranquil 14-seat counter in midtown, chef Lim gives praise to the dish by showcasing it in four unique preparations: baechu (the traditional cabbage kimchi), dongchimi (radish water kimchi), bo kimchi (wrapped kimchi) and jang kimchi (soy sauce-based kimchi). Throughout his 10-course menu of cold and hot dishes, including Uni Gimbap and Galbi with Sotbap, a traditional Korean rice dish, kimchi is woven into each one. Part tasting, part educational opportunity, each guest will receive a booklet from New York-based artist Seong Won Jeon of drawings and descriptions for each kimchi preparation. The full experience will run you $255 per person.

Just as thoughtful as a pairing, sommelier Hak Soo Kim (formerly of Per Se and Jungsik) has sourced a menu of premium soju wine and beer for the partaking. A short list of cocktails is also available from head bartender Mario Castro (formerly of Odo and Jua), including the Cloud Blossom with St. George Pear, Neversink gin and makgeolli foam and a kimchi-washed Donchitini. And if indecisiveness rears its head, guests can try the best of both worlds by selecting the mixed beverage pairing, priced at $195 per person.

Whether you are a kimchi savant or still new to the world of all things fermented, you can now book your spot at Raon to discover the beauty of the dish for yourself. 

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