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Deep into Brooklyn by Gravesend, behind a trio of what seem to be nondescript gated doors, is a treasure of a kosher restaurant: Castell's, an Italian eatery that debuted with much fanfare back in September and continues to dazzle months into its operation.
Although the restaurant's name, which translates to "castle" from Catalan, doesn’t directly relate to the Italian dishes on the menu, it perfectly captures the atmosphere. Dining at Castell’s—a 3,800-square-foot space draped in white tablecloths and attended by impeccably dressed staff—feels much like eating inside an ancient fortress.
The menu, certainly hefty, is much more refined and restricted than what other kosher restaurants in the area usually serve. Clearly, the men behind the effort, Daniel Matias Britos of Teva (a kosher restaurant in New Jersey) and chef Tino Olivera, have made curation their primary focus—and it paid off.
A handful of pasta dishes, each one rich in flavor and overall memorable, share space with a couple of pizza options, fish platters worth the price tag and a variety of appetizers.
We'd be remiss not to directly mention the carpaccio di tonno: thin slices of tuna draped in crispy sunchokes, onions, fresno peppers and just the right amount of lemon. May we suggest you order two of those?
Drink-wise, sommelier Ralph Mann's wine list is an impressive one that spans various regions, including France, Israel and Italy. The cocktails developed by Milan Obrenovic also delight, from a Truffle Hog that tastes just like what it sounds like to more traditional drinks like the East Side, made with Tito's vodka, lime juice, cucumber and elder flower.
Mostly, though, it is the physical bar where the various concoctions are poured that will catch your attention: the beautiful banquet functions as a centerpiece of the restaurant that happens to look great on Instagram but also be extremely functional given the eatery's needs.
In a city replete with kosher restaurants, some better than others, Castell's' makes it a point to deliver an experience that abides by religious dietary restrictions while also offering a unique ambiance and oh-so-delicious food.