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Rawia Bishara has this to say about her family: “We are a kind of people that don't like to eat alone.”
Growing up in Nazareth, Israel, the constant flow of people gathered around the table was a common occurrence, all drawn in by her mother's cooking. A teacher and an amazing home cook, her mother, Monira, welcomed all to her home for a taste of her Palestinian food—from hosting visiting family members to cooking meals for kids in the neighborhood. When Rawia moved to Bay Ridge, she followed the same ethos, feeding friends, family and neighbors who were entranced by the smells from her kitchen, so much so her husband nicknamed their home, “Hotel Bishara.”
After her kids left for college, she had an inkling to expand her table and start her own business. But she hesitated, remembering the message that was given to her mother and, subsequently, passed down to her: women don’t open restaurants. Still, she followed her passion, determined to fulfill her dream but her mother’s.
“I decided it's time to pursue my dream because it's not only mine—it's mine and my mom's,” said Rawia. “I thought, if I do this, I will be honoring her name, her spirit and every recipe she made for us.”
So in 1998, Rawia opened Tanoreen in Bay Ridge, at a time when Middle Eastern food was cosigned to falafel and shawarma. Now 25 years later, Tanoreen has pioneered Palestinian and cuisine from the Levant region. The restaurant has earned various recognition and accolades, including features in The Wall Street Journal and The New York Times, plus a Michelin Bib Gourmand award. Dishes from her upbringing are now shared across the country thanks to a partnership with Goldbelly. Her staff is more of a family, with members who have been with her since day one. Speaking of, her daughter, Jumana, joined the family business and has worked alongside her since 2006.
Now, the restaurant is starting a new chapter. Expanding for the first time, Tanoreen is opening a new location in Time Out Market on November 21.
“We've been offered and explored food halls in the past, but we declined them,” said Jumana. “But something about Time Out Market—I love the fact that there are so many tourists, which means that different types of people get to try our food.”
While more of a fast-casual stop compared to their Bay Ridge restaurant, the food here is still made with the care the mother-and-daughter duo are known for. Touring across the Levant region, starters include a full selection of mezzes—think hummus, baba ghanoush and tabouleh salad—alongside flatbreads and spinach and meat pies. Entrees include Rawia’s original Cauliflower Steak, breaded with panko and Parm, before being fried and served with tahini, pomegranate molasses and spicy harissa as well as the Lamb Fetti, a shredded lamb served over rice and vermicelli pilaf blend with a yogurt-tahini sauce and almonds. And as for dessert, the golden-brown, orange blossom-laden Cheese Knafeh will also be on offer.
As Rawia looks back on nearly three decades in business, she too is ready for her next step. The opening of the Market location marks a transition between the mother-and-daughter duo as Jumana is gearing up to take on the family business.
“I think after 25 years, you know, at some point this torch is going to be passed on to me fully," said Jumana. "I'm excited about this kind of expansion."
But don't worry, Rawia is still here along for the ride.
“As long as I can stand on my feet, I'm there,” said Rawia.