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After months and months of incremental updates to its guides, recent Bib Gourmand additions, and, as always, plenty of divisive picks across the lot, Michelin on Tuesday evening announced its New York-area stars for 2023 at a ceremony in lower Manhattan.
Eight newly landed shiners include Bōm in Flatiron, for its “elegant service and well-executed” Korean cuisine, Essential by Christophe on the Upper West Side, where “French technique is married with Asian flavors,” Joji in Midtown East, “where tradition reigns but never feels stuffy” in the atmosphere or the omakase, Meju in Long Island City, where “traditionally Korean ingredients” emerge in “carefully calibrated dishes that appear strikingly minimalist,” Restaurant Yuu in Williamsburg, for “dishes that are classically French, but seen through the eyes of Japanese omotenashi,” Shmoné in the West Village, where, Israeli “flavors are impressively dialed-in and make for a focused meal that is surprisingly approachable and humble,” Sushi Ichimura in Tribeca, where the “edomae-style omakase has shaped this city’s sushi sensibility,” and Torrisi in Soho, for its balance of the “creative and the familiar,” in creating Italian-American plates. The freshman honorees scored one sparkler each, which, in Michelin parlance that recalls the tires the company also manufactures, means they’ve got “high quality cooking, worth a stop.”
Flatiron Japanese restaurant Odo and the Upper East Side’s Sushi Noz both doubled their commendations this year, now with two stars a piece, awarded for “excellent cuisine, worth a detour.” Although there weren’t any new three-star spots this edition—Michelin’s highest echelon for “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey”—Masa, Per Se, Le Bernardin and even Eleven Madison Park all kept the distinction. Dirt Candy and Family Meal at Blue Hill both added green stars to their accolades, a hue intended to identify sustainability leaders.
Elsewhere among the nods, Michelin’s exceptional cocktails award went to the bar team at Cosme. Its sommelier award went to Contento’s Yannick Benjamin. Outstanding service went to Café Mars' Madalyn Summers. Aquavit’s Emma Bengtsson was recognized as mentor chef. And Telly Justice from HAGS won Michelin’s young chef award for 2023.
Casa Enrique, The River Cafe and Don Angie were notable among downgrades. Casa Enrique was one of Michelin’s few Queens locations and Mexican cuisine inclusions. The River Cafe has long ranked among NYC’s best fine dining destinations, as well as among those with spectacular views. And Don Angie is very popular. Each have been bumped back to entry level guide slots, absent stars, along with Claro and Kanoyama.
“Stars are evaluated each year, and meals that demonstrate weakness for their award are re-visited,” reads a statement attributed to the Michelin Guide’s anonymous chief inspector for North America.
“The decision to demote a starred restaurant is based on a deficiency in one or more of the five criteria for a Michelin star, over numerous visits: 1) quality products; 2) the harmony of flavors; 3) the mastery of cooking techniques; 4) the personality of the chef as reflected in the cuisine; 5) consistency between each visit and throughout the menu.”
See the full list of new and returning starred restaurants here.