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New York City’s slow and steady return to lunch continues this month as one of 2023’s buzziest new restaurants added the midday meal last week.
Sailor cruised into Brooklyn so successfully last September that even on the odd chance you could nab a late reservation in the seasons that followed, the spot whose menu became best known for its roasted half-chicken might have been out of the clucking thing by 9:45pm. Tons of media attention, positive reviews, an esteemed team and good, old, hospitality magic made the place about as hot as an ostensible neighborhood restaurant can be. A look at its reservation platform today, in fact, still reflects a user interface of red, including, it would seem, for that recently added noon-to-two slot. Like at dinner, however, half the space is set aside for pop–ins, according to a post on Sailor’s Instagram page.
The only fowl on the lunch menu is in salad form, and they’ve also added avocado toast with fermented hot sauce, a grilled cheese and tomato sandwich and a $50 aged sirloin steak with blue cheese butter and fries, Sailor’s most expensive item day or night.
The move mirrors Gage & Tollner’s lunch addition from last year, when that immediately august institution, buzzy in its own, destination way, also added afternoon hours and a dry-aged burger. Though we’re still a ways away from anything like the proliferation of the all-day cafes of 2018-2019, a mini lunch resurgence is percolating. Delmonico’s has also added the service since it reopened last September, and representatives for Koi were recently promoting a three martini variety at the hotel restaurant—a return to those erstwhile power hours if there ever was one.
Sailor is located at 228 DeKalb Avenue in Brooklyn. It is open for lunch Wednesday-Friday from noon-2pm, brunch Saturday and Sunday from 10am-2pm and dinner Wednesday from 5-10pm, Thursday-Saturday from 5-10:30pm and Sunday from 5-10pm.