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We could write an ode to New York’s pizza scene, in fact, we have. Beyond the debate as to why slices that fold are superior, the real secret sauce to our scene is the variety of it all. Detroit-style? Emmy Squared and Ace’s Pizza have a lock on ‘za from the Motor City. Chicago? Regardless of how you feel about it, several pizzerias have perfected the art of the deep-dish. Now, New York is getting one slice richer with the introduction of Moody Tongue Pizza.
Debuting this past Friday, Moody Tongue Pizza (123 Street Marks Place) is now open in the East Village. Its draw? Tokyo-Neapolitan-style pizza. Riffing off the calling card of Naples, Neapolitan pizzas found a foothold in Japan, dating back to when chef Susumu Kakinuma began introducing the style with his restaurant, Seirinkan. So what are the markers of a Tokyo-Neapolitan pie?
"There is variation in the interpretation of the Tokyo-Neapolitan pizza style,” said co-owner of Moody Tongue Jared Rouben. “For example, some chefs incorporate an extra salt punch, some chefs add an extra char to their crust, and some chefs crimp their dough. From my research and travels in Japan, however, the primary distinguishing feature is the combination of an incredibly light, airy crust with balance amongst all of the ingredients. So, while we incorporate some of the elements above, we primarily achieve this profile within our crust through our flour blend and fermentation process, ultimately creating a delicate dough which yields a light body and crispy undercarriage."
Executive chef Vincenzo Santoro is in charge of the pizzas here, and he has the resume to prove it, including the 2024 World Pizza Champion from the International Pizza Expo. On his menu, he balances the fusion of both cuisines, incorporating crispy shallots in the Fluke crudo while the yuzu-marinated Togarashi Lemon Pepper Wings are sprinkled with furikake. As for the pizzas, the airy pies range from the Marinara and Margherita to the Genovese with short rib ragu.
To pair? Beer, of course! Straight from Moody Tongue Brewing Company, the restaurant features 16 beers in rotation, many of which incorporate Asian ingredients, including the Toasted Rice Lager with baked lychee, the Yuzu Lager and Juice Lychee IPA. To-go packs are available for to-go pizza, including Shaved Black Truffle Pilsner and the Orange Blossom Belgian Blonde.
So go check out NYC's latest and mark another pizza style off your list.