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French chef Daniel Boulud is known all over the globe for fine dining destinations like New York City’s genre-defining Daniel. Tonight, Friday, May 6, one of the fanciest household names in the culinary world will open a new restaurant intended as a more casual affair.
Le Gratin is not Boulud’s first foray into what might be more reasonably classified as everyday special-occasion spots. The chef’s Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud are each more approachable than that august institution, and that same famous name is splashed across informal operations at Lincoln Center and new NYC skyscraper One Vanderbilt. But, in this case, “casual” is a charmingly incongruous description, given Le Gratin’s ornately beautiful address.
The restaurant’s grand interior is on the ground floor of the beautiful Beekman Hotel across square footage previously occupied by Augustine. Local artist Marc Dennis created new works to line the space between marbled floors and coffered ceilings. Large leather banquettes and white tablecloths are lit by chandeliers and honeyed hues bounce off oversized mirrors. The dining room seems to split the difference between a power lunch location and a romantic dinner venue.
The Lyon-influenced menu was authored by Boulud and chefs Guillaume Ginther and Jean François Bruel, both of whom have Daniel bonafides. Oysters and tuna crudo are among the raw bar options, soups and salads include a chilled watercress vichyssoise and gem lettuce, green beans and shaved foie gras in hazelnut dressing and starters span terrine, pâté, charcuterie, escargots and steak tartare.
A lengthy list of mains features roasted duck breast, whole or half chicken, grilled branzino and a côte de boeuf for two. Executive pastry chef Kristyn Onasch’s (previously of Boulud Sud) gâteau chocolat, tarte aux abricots with pistachio ice cream and fraises melba populate the dessert menu, in addition to a seasonal cheese plate. The wine list numbers more than 100 selections primarily sourced from Lyon. Cocktails and beer are also available.
Le Gratin is located at 5 Beekman Street and is open Tuesday-Thursday from 5pm-10pm and Friday-Saturday from 5pm-10:30pm.
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