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In recent months, a wave of specialized bakeries has been opening across the city—Sunday Morning Delight offers ten varieties of cinnamon rolls daily, for example, while Win Son Bakery now serves its signature scallion pancake breakfast sandwiches from a second location. Yet, none have quite mastered the delicate craft of Venezuelan pastries—until now.
Enter Lulla's, a new bakery at 169 Graham Avenue in Williamsburg, led by restaurateur Ivo Diaz. With a mission to shake up the local pastry scene, Lulla's offers New Yorkers both traditional Venezuelan staples and inventive twists on beloved classics.
"Each of our dishes is rooted in tradition, often inspired by recipes passed down throughout generations," Diaz, who also owns Casa Ora, an upscale Venezuelan restaurant in Brooklyn, says to Time Out New York. "I want our guests to walk away full with an understanding and appreciation for Venezuelan culture and the care we put into every dish. My hope is that New Yorkers discover that Venezuelan cuisine is so much more than what they already know."
To accomplish his goal, Diaz is offering guests staples that have already found a fanbase on this side of the Atlantic. Venezuelan ham bread, called cachito, is one such treat. Although usually made with a water-based dough, at Lulla's, the team uses milk and a Japanese technique called tangzhong to cook a portion of the flour with liquid into a paste before adding it to the dough. The result is a soft and airy product that "adds that slightly chewy pull that people love."
Once the dough is ready, each piece is filled with high-quality ham and, sometimes, some extra cheese. The food is then shaped, glazed and baked until golden.
Also on the menu is the crofeado, a twist on the classic golfeado (basically, a cheesy sticky bun) that combines the treat's sweet-savory flavors with a croissant dough, all topped with Guayanés cheese, which is mild and creamy, and a generous drizzle of papelón syrup, made from raw sugar cane.
Other best sellers include guava croissants, piñita breads and tequeños (small, fried cheese stick snacks).
Although operating as a bakery, the destination also serves an all-day menu of bites like arepas, empanadas and other Venezuelan delicacies.
At Lulla's, which is named after Diaz's daughter Lulla, coffee also gets the start treatment. As noted by the owner, in New York, folks tend to grab a cup of java and go about their day. At his new bakery, things will be a bit different, inspired by the way the drink is consumed in South America.
So when ordering a toddy (hot chocolate infused with coffee) or a dirty chicha (a rice-based concoction blended with espresso), for example, expect more than a delicious drink.
"In Venezuela, coffee is more than a caffeine boost," shares the owner. "It is a ritual that is woven into every day life. People enjoy it throughout the day, usually in small servings and typically socially. It's a moment to pause and connect. At Lulla’s, we’re inviting people to experience coffee and reconnect with themselves or with others, ideally over good conversation."