Gage & Tollner and other iconic New York restaurants are coming back to life

Guess who's back? Some of New York’s most notable restaurants are coming back to life and proving that everything old is new again. From a revival of a seafood spot and one of the best restaurants in Brooklyn to the revival of the beloved Great Jones Cafe and a fine dining stalwart being given a much needed update, this season's fall 2019 restaurant openings are a reminder of New York's restaurant history. But now, these best new restaurants must evolve to meet the needs of today's diners. Our guide for which ones to look out for: 

Photograph: Courtesy of Brooklyn Historical Society

Gage & Tollner

Long before Brooklyn restaurants became insufferably trendy, Gage & Tollner—which closed in 2004 after 125 years—was a borough hot spot. Now reopening, the historic chophouse’s new menu will feature modern updates on everything from she-crab soup to clam-belly broils. Upstairs, you’ll find tiki cocktails at the Sunken Harbor Club. 

Downtown Brooklyn (gageandtollner.com)

Photograph: Evan Sung

Gotham Bar & Grill

The newly appointed chef Victoria Blamey is giving a much-needed breath of fresh air to this institution in hopes of appealing to a younger demographic. White plates have been swapped for colorful ceramics, upon which you’ll find dishes like smoked trout roe with burrata, charred Japanese eggplant and lamb collar with kabocha squash. 

Union Square (gothambarandgrill.com)

Photograph: Jim Connolly

Esca

Dave Pasternack has been the chef here since it opened in 2000. But it’s only recently that he partnered with Victor Rallo to give the space a makeover that transports diners to the Italian seaside. The stellar food is still focused on seafood, paired with local and seasonal ingredients. 

Hell’s Kitchen (esca-nyc.com)

Photograph: Erik Medsker

The Jones

Restaurateur Gabriel Stulman is an expert at designing neighborhoody spaces. Keeping alive the spirit of the beloved Great Jones Café, his revival offers a seafood-themed menu, including bluefish tartine, sardines with butter and a fried fish sandwich. 

Noho (thejones.nyc) 

RECOMMENDED: Fall 2019 restaurant preview coverage.

*A version of this article appears in a Time Out New York print issue, out September 18th.