Four things to know about Fort Greene's newest tasting counter

It's easy to miss Ikigai (87 Lafayette Avenue) if you're passing through Fort Greene. Located down a small set of concrete stairs, the only indication of Ikigai’s existence is a small wooden sign framed on a brick wall. Once you pass that threshold, you’ll find Brooklyn’s latest tasting counter. You may assume this 12–14 coursed menu, priced at $165, only adds to the list of fine dining restaurants in NYC, but when it comes to Ikigai, the heart of the venture lies with the community. Looking to book a table? Here are four things to know about this new spot before you go.

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1. Minimalism meets tranquil vibes

A kaiseki-inspired restaurant, Ikigai draws influence from Japan. This is immediately seen in the back garden, where the experience begins. A transitional space intended to shake off the daily dealings of New York, the Japanese tea garden exudes tranquility. Decorated with greenery and shoji screens made of paper and wood, the outdoor space is made even more cozy thanks to a retractable roof. 

The main event, however, lies inside at the curved dining counter. The woodwork here is immaculate, with a ceiling crafted from shou sugi ban wood, sourced from Japan and charred in Oregon. Shaped like the curl of a wave, the 12-seater bar welcomes guests with forest green tufted chairs, pulled up and ready for the show. While taking pictures of the affair is tempting, under the counter sits a shelf for each seat, encouraging snap-happy users to take a break and be present for the meal.  

2. Fort Greene is on the menu here

Behind the counter, you’ll find chef Rafal Maslankiewicz. With a pedigree that spans the likes of MASA, Eleven Madison Park and most recently Wildflower Farms, Maslankiewicz brings together his fine dining acumen and his seasonality know-how. Here, the menu rotates frequently as Maslankiewicz leans on local and global suppliers and regularly trips to Fort Greene’s Greenmarket for ingredients and inspiration. 

This time around, the first bite started with a puffed round of milk bread with a sprinkle of sea salt. With it, a side salad made up of arugula, impossibly thin shavings of lotus root, and bright pops of currants. A knife is given but not needed, as breaking apart the pieces and swiping it through the togarashi butter smeared on the side of the bowl felt natural. While it’s evident the chef knows what to do when it comes to proteins, letting plump scallops shine with a touch of sweet vinegar while braised duck gets a tart kiss from plout jam, Maslankiewicz’s vegetable preparations are something to be admired. The Okinawa Potatoes come caramelized in black garlic, dusted with puffed quinoa and chives while the carrots are served with slices of sansho pepper making for a buzzing, numbing sensation in each bite. And while Maslankiewicz’s menu mainly steers through Japanese influences, he always incorporates a nod to his Polish roots. Reminiscing on his childhood memories of eating knedle, a Polish dumpling filled with fruit, with his grandmother, at Ikigai, Maslankiewicz stirs in mochiko flour to the potato flour for an even chewier bite. And for a New York spin, the inside is filled with a warm cheesecake, complemented with fruit and sour cream on the side. 

3. Spirit-forward or spirit-free? Why not both?

Ikigiai’s alcoholic options can be ordered à la carte or you can opt for a full pairing for $100 more. While lively spirits here include aged sakes and cocktails stirred with Laphroaig 10-year single malt scotch whisky, the non-alcoholic pairing menu is just as thoughtful with aperitifs and playful spirit-free sippers, including the Kumoyo Island with tomato water, shisho and Seedlip. Even more exciting, diners can opt for a moderate tasting and toggle between both menus throughout the evening. And if you decide halfway through the meal that maybe, just maybe, you could indulge in a bit, the attentive beverage manager is always close by, quick to assess your needs.

4. A restaurant with a mission

The restaurant’s name translates to “reason for being” in Japanese. And for Ikigai, their reason is fighting food waste and food insecurity. The not-for-profit restaurant benefits Rescuing Leftover Cuisine, a local organization that redistributes excess food to those experiencing food insecurity. After paying the cost of goods, salaries and the various costs that comes with running a restaurant, Ikigai donates the rest of its profits to the organization.