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For a long while, chef Daniel Boulud wanted to name one of his restaurants La Tête d’Or, named after a historic park in his hometown of Lyon, France. But even he, one of the world’s largest culinary authorities, noted restaurateur and cookbook author (truly, we could go on) was discouraged from doing so, with the thought that clientele wouldn’t understand the name. But with the coming of his first steakhouse, one that balances his French and American worlds, Boulud decided it was best to make a splash.
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One of our most anticipated openings of the season, La Tête d’Or debuted this month, fusing French traditions with a classic steakhouse feel. With a name that translates to “The Head of Gold”—relating to the park and the lore of the buried treasure within it—the restaurant is truly something to discover. Working with David Rockwell of Rockwell Group, the steakhouse stuns straight from the entryway that is a deep-red vestibule lit with soft glowing amber fixtures, a calm reprieve from the energy of Madison Square Park that sits across the street. Passing by the bar with its own sultry corner of bronze mirrors and velvet armchairs, leads to the soaring, high-ceiling dining room. With elements of dark woods and leather and plush banquettes with elegant bouquets that sit above them, the 120-seat dining room is framed by the open kitchen with its opulent hood that calls to the Art Deco era.
Once the eyes have been satisfied, it is time for the stomach to receive the same treatment. The starters balance French and American sensibilities, starting with Diver Scallop Crudo and Yellowfin Tuna Tartare, an import from his eponymous restaurant, Daniel. Meanwhile, Boulud’s nod to New York comes in the form of a Wood-Fired Bone Marrow that infuses pastrami and sauerkraut. Indulgences come in the form of caviar service and seafood towers with tiers of oysters, razor clams and king crab legs.
And as promised, steaks you want, steaks you shall have. Eleven steaks grace the menu, from a Bavette sourced from Snake River Farms to a 45-Day Dry Aged Rib-Eye that melts like butter in the mouth. But before even you look at the menu, you may notice there is a certain steak that makes itself known in the dining room. Wheeled around in a metal trolley is the Prime Rib Trolley. Inside it, the American Wagyu Ribeye from Scharbauer Ranch. Parked and carved at the table, the steak is ladled with a choice of bordelaise or béarnaise served with creamy spinach, pommes purée and peppered popovers.
While desserts range from decadent cakes, tarts and cookies, it's the sundaes that are a must. Playing to Boulud’s love of American ice cream shops, swirls of soft-serve come with a plate of goodies—sprinkles, coca nibs and cranberry meringue kisses—to make your own sweet treat. And oh, how sweet it is.