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Since 1984, the Settepani Bakery has satisfied our sweet tooth with a plethora of treats, be it croissants and cookies to classic Italian trades including cannoli and sfogliatelle. Growing up in the sweet life is Bilena Settepani. While she always had her hands in some sort of dough growing up, Bilena now operates as the executive pastry chef and the director of marketing for the brand. As if that wasn’t enough, she is also the creator of the Insta-famous Rainbow Cookie Croissant. We caught up with Bilena to talk about the family business, all things panettone and her upcoming “Crookie” making class.
You initially started a career in fashion. However, you dropped everything to help your family during illness and the pandemic. What was it like to transition to this career?
BS: The transition was intense, to say the least. I had always been passionate about fashion, so leaving that world behind was a bit like stepping into the unknown. But when my family needed me, there was no question—I had to step up. It was a steep learning curve, but I found my rhythm, and now it feels like it was always meant to be.
What does a day in the life at the bakery look like for you?
BS: It’s a beautiful blend of chaos and order. I’m usually up at the crack of dawn—there’s no time to waste when you’re working with dough! Mornings are all about getting orders prepped and the day’s production moving, whether it’s croissants, cookies, custom cakes or panettone. After that, it’s meetings with the team, new recipes and constantly thinking ahead for upcoming holidays or events. By the end of the day, I’m covered in flour, I smell like Butter N5 eau de parfum and definitely craving multiple espressos.
You balance both Ethiopian/Eritrean and Italian cultures. How do you bring a taste of both to the bakery?
BS: That blend is a huge part of who I am, and it naturally finds its way into our creations. For example, we’ve crafted pastries that feature cardamom and awaze for special occasions—flavors that aren’t typically found in Italian cuisine. It’s all about telling a story through food, and I enjoy finding ways to marry these two worlds.
Your family’s bakery has long been known for its panettone, a staple since 1984. For a new spin, you established the flavor of the month. What was the reasoning behind this?
BS: When we first started, we were making artisanal panettone long before most people even knew what it was in the United States. At first, we made it exclusively for the holidays, but when we opened our Harlem location, we introduced panettone French toast to the menu, which meant we had to make panettone year-round to support that dish. Every holiday, we always bring out less traditional flavors, like chocolate and pistachio. But when it felt like the world was ending during the pandemic, we wanted to keep things exciting. That’s where the flavor of the month idea came in. We started shipping panettone nationwide, which gave us the chance to experiment with ingredients you wouldn’t typically find in a classic panettone. It’s our way of staying true to tradition while adding a fresh twist.
Do you have a favorite flavor?
BS: We rotate through so many fun flavors—from pistachio to Nutella, and pumpkin pecan coming up this November. It’s tough to pick a favorite, but my top three have to be Nutellattone, Pistachio, and, of course, our Rainbow Cookie panettone.
Speaking of, you introduced the Rainbow Cookie Croissant or the “Crookie” to the bakery. How did you come up with this mashup?
BS: The "Crookie" originally came from a bakery in Paris. I immediately looked it up to see where I could get one in NYC, only to find that no one had jumped on the trend yet. As I started recreating the Crookie with croissants and cookie dough, I thought, "Why not make this with my favorite cookie?" The buttery, flaky croissant paired with the bold flavors of the rainbow cookie was destined to be a perfect combination.
For the upcoming New York City Food & Wine Festival, you will be teaching a class on how to make your famous croissant. What will participants walk away with?
BS: The class will focus on the art of the croissants, whether you want to keep it classic or turn them into “Crookies.” Participants will leave with the confidence to make their own croissants at home, along with the skills to get as creative as they’d like. Everyone in the class will get to enjoy delicious treats while baking and take home their own creations.
What are some tips for beginner bakers nervous about getting into the kitchen?
BS: Start simple! Baking can seem overwhelming, but you don’t need to master everything at once. My biggest tip is to have fun, be patient and don’t rush the process—especially when working with dough. And don’t be afraid to experiment! After all, you’re creating something that will bring joy to yourself or someone else.
Settepani Bakery "Le Crookie" Rainbow Cookie Croissant Master Class hosted by Bilena Settepani for New York City Food & Wine Festival will be held on Saturday, October 19, at 10am. Register here.