As much as our state is tied to our famous concrete landscape in NYC, New York State has plenty of outdoor and wilderness to explore, 18.6 million acres of it, in fact. Throughout the year, plenty of New Yorkers pack up their cars or take to the train, ready to reconnect with nature. It’s in our DNA to listen to the siren call of the Catskills. Less than a three-hour drive away, the diverse region with its landscape of mountains and rivers was once (and still is) a thriving tourist destination. In its heyday, the area welcomed millions of visitors from the early 1900s up until the mid-1960s, with over 50,000 all-inclusive resorts and bungalows dotting the area. Today, The DeBruce in Livingston Manor is one of the last ones remaining.
Established in the 1880s, the property has held several various names throughout its tenure, including The Maple, St. Brendan’s and most recently, the DeBruce Country Inn. In 2017, Foster Supply Hospitality restored the 12-room lodge, solidifying it as a stop for nature’s players while also introducing a dining destination worth the drive.
After a good two-hour stretch in the car, turning onto the gravel driveway of The DeBruce was a welcome sight. The three-story mansion welcomes with an evergreen-painted front porch outfitted with benches that swing and Adirondack chairs. Even before I popped the trunk, the hospitality manager came out and personally greeted me by name before ushering me inside.
Check-in started at the Grand Room on the main floor, and grand it was. Defining the cozy cabin aesthetic with its exposed wooden beams and plaid wallpaper, the communal space serves a few functions depending on the time of day. Most often, it's a dining space with a collection of long and short wooden tables where even dogs are welcome to join you while you break bread. But in between meal times, it's a landing where guests can drink their morning coffee in a cow print chair, catch up on one of its many couches and connect with others. In many ways, The DeBruce encourages this type of togetherness. With only 12 guest rooms on the property, it is common to see the same faces from night to night. And so, The DeBruce provides the spaces to connect, whether it's in the Conservatory room with its shelves of books and wooden fireplace or the four-course communal dinner only served on Fridays.
Speaking of, the food is one of the largest draws of The DeBruce. In the kitchen, executive chef Jean Paul “JP” Medina stays true to what’s growing in the ground, handpicking goods from the property and local farmers in the area. This attention detail likely earned him a semifinalist nod from the James Beard Foundation. Experience it yourself by reserving the tasting menu, held Monday through Thursday with one seating on Saturday, priced at $175 per person. But if you are looking for something more casual with less spend, you can always opt for the a la carte dinner in the Grand Room before ducking downstairs to the lively bar. Those who opt for the dining package also receive the complimentary breakfast for two, which was one of the best meals of the stay. Mornings must include French toast with a slice of ham and comté cheese and a side of duck-fat potatoes crosshatched with hot sauce and mayo. Even better, breakfast is served in the sun-soaked, glass-walled dining room, that offers stunning views of the valley below.
But before you camp in the dining room for too long, remember, The DeBruce has plenty to do. Backed by 600 acres, the property has hundreds of acres of private land, including a trail system plus a half mile of river dedicated to fly-fishing. Fly fishing lessons with a guide can be booked separately, while seasoned pros can bring their gear and store it in their assigned lockers in the downstairs Tackle Room. But if the weekend calls for nature without getting your hands dirty, the property has a small heated pool for dipping and a lake right behind the house that hosts nightly bonfires—blankets and smores kits included.
And after you’ve played in the wilderness, the rooms give a quiet retreat to lay your head. Staying in The Parlor King, the king suite featured a sitting area with a chaise lounge and a leather chair, to decamp or just rest for a spell, plus a dog bed to accompany my furry companion. The cool-toned main bedroom was spacious enough to fit a king bed with a warm overhead lamp. The bathroom sticks out a bit with modern upgrades, including a stark white walled shower and white tiled floors. But I couldn’t complain with the waterfall shower and toiletries from Malin & Goetz.
And while the property has undergone many upgrades, the age still shows. The doors have a tendency to stick, the floors creak and if there is a large gathering downstairs, you can easily hear it upstairs, or at least I did on the second floor. But all of it adds to the never-ending charm that is The Debruce.
Neighborhood
Described as a small town with a big yard, Livingston Manor is perched on the edge of the wilderness, where thousands come to fly fishing, hike or simply look at the sights. But even homebodies can find solace here, as art galleries, shops and breweries are within driving distance.
Nearby
1. Upward Brewing Company: For sipping suds in the sun. This taproom is an award-winning brewery is made for lingering with plenty of leather backed chairs and sofas to sink into. But if the weather’s nice, the open lawn with plenty of park benches and a firepit.
2. Phoenicia Diner: For travelers ready for a hearty but locally-sourced meal. Built in 1962 but moved to the Catskills in the early 80s, the Phoenicia Diner has nourished many a traveler. Revamped in 2011, the restaurant still hits the classics alongside modern dishes that source local, eluding a sort of Brooklyn cool.
3. Catskill Art Space: For culture hounds who want to see world-class art has a home in the Catskills. For over 50 years, the recently rebranded Catskill Art Space has featured a rotating cast of exhibitions, performances and screenings across its two floors.
Time Out tip
If you are lucky, you may just see beavers near the lake around evening hours, swimming in the water and crunching away at fallen timber.