White Star (CLOSED)

Mixology maestro Sasha Petraske has abandoned his opening concept—focusing on sipping spirits, not cocktails—but this narrow, lamp-lit spot is all the better for it. The bar now cranks out expertly rendered classics such as brawny Sazeracs and aromatic old-fashioneds anchored by hand-cracked ice. Absinthe is still the bar’s centerpiece, but the liquor’s snail-pace preparation (a bartender dribbles icy water over a slotted, sugar-topped spoon) slows down service. Stick with mixed drinks instead.