This UWS wine bar was conceived with the inquisitive drinker
in mind. Though the interior is generic, the wine—a mostly organic and biodynamic collection of Old World bottles—more than makes up for the setting. The eager sommelier-barkeeps steered us toward offbeat discoveries like a rare white Gravonia Rioja ($18) that was rich, raisiny and as viscous as sherry. There are also bargain gems like a crisp green-apple Chiorri Grechetto ($12). Snacks from former Mercat chef David Seigal round out the experience: a squid-ink fideos (paella made with short noodles) was exceptional.