The Garden at Four Seasons Hotel New York

With just a few trees and a clear view of hotel reception, this wine bar in the lobby of the Four Seasons is less bucolic than the name suggests. Though the list is impressive, with more than 160 international bottles, it’s also utterly preposterous. Many selections—including a plump Felsina Riserva chianti—go for $30–$40 a glass (a few less compelling options bottom out at $15). There’s also a full lunch menu, which includes straightforward and well-executed classics like a crisp-skinned roasted chicken. If you are staying at the hotel and can afford a drink and a bite here, you’ll be satisfied—if utterly uninspired. With L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon located in the same building, you can certainly do better.