Like many rich and, ahem, mature New Yorkers, the Campbell Apartment inside Grand Central Terminal has had a little work done. After a change of hands and a brief shutdown in July 2016, Gerber Group (Mr. Purple) reopened the historic bar with more seating, a relaxed dress code and a streamlined moniker. And just like the most expensive plastic surgeries, the best features are preserved: The landmark space still sports its wooden, hand-painted ceilings, oversize stone fireplace and leaded-glass windows. But through the nips and tucks, some of its distinctive old-world charm has worn off. On a recent Wednesday night, the service lagged, the enchanting swing music markedly gave way to Adele, and drinks ranged from decent to forgettable. Some things are best left in the past, but the new Campbell makes us yearn for the old.
The vibe: Its present design highlights include original leaded-glass windows, a lofty hand-painted ceiling and stone fireplace.
The food: Run of the mill bar snacks, plus a Caviar service with potato chips.
The drink: Beer, wine by the glass, classic and specialty cocktails–a bit of everything, including a nearly $600 bottle of Cab Sauv.
Time Out tip: This place is more about drinking in this room than the drinking itself–you could wander into the specialty cocktails, but you’re probably going to be better served by ordering an expertly-tuned classic. Their Vesper, for example, is beautifully balanced.