Le Bernardin vet Mandy Oser’s iron-and-marble gem offers superior wines in a relaxed setting. The 75-strong collection of international bottles is a smart balance of Old and New World options that pair beautifully with the eclectic small plates. Our grüner veltliner—a dry, oaky white from the Knoll winery in Wachau, Austria—had enough backbone to stand up to a duck banh mi layered with house-made pâté and duck prosciutto. A blended red from Spain’s Cellar Can Blau, meanwhile, was a spicy, velvety match for coriander-rich homemade mortadella. Our sole quibble: The wine list lacks specific tasting notes, which would have been helpful when considering less familiar selections from areas like Slovenia and Hungary.
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