Bonheur d'Occasion
Photograph: Virginie Gosselin | Bonheur d'Occasion
Photograph: Virginie Gosselin | Bonheur d'Occasion

Top 10 restaurants in Montreal : 2023

Looking for the best restaurants to eat at in Montreal? Here are the top 10 according to culinary critic Tommy Dion (Le Cuisinomane).

Tommy Dion
Translated by: Laura Osborne
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The top 10 restaurants of the year were handpicked by culinary critic Tommy Dion (Le Cuisinomane) based on his empirical research (read: eating) at nearly 200 different restaurants. Each review is based on the food, ambiance, service, wine and cocktail menu, and the sucess with which all these elements mingle. Add these 10 restaurants to your list in 2024!

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Top 10 restaurants in Montreal : 2023

I've always said, and I repeat: a solo chef in the kitchen always produces something fascinating. It's a special exchange between chef and customer, a fleeting moment that leaves a lasting memory. At Lawrence, everything makes sense. There's a strong chance you won't hear a word from chef Marc John Cohen. As shy as he is, his mode of communication arrives on the plate—and it resonates loudly. The succession of dishes is an ode to English (his place of birth), French (his school), and Montreal cuisine (his adopted city). He shoots and scores with bold choices: double ravioli with chicken heart and liver; pork brain and turmeric spaghetti (cooked in butter and Parmesan), and pig's head agnolotti. The menu also features somewhat more cautious yet equally delicious creations, like a roasted lamb buried in black truffle from Burgundy, an aged sirloin with seasonal garnishes, or a lovely (but complex) tomato salad.

To celebrate a special occasion, I can't recommend anything better than an evening where you entrust your fate to a chef at an omakase bar. At Park, you'll find Pperfectly cooked, tempered, seasoned rice, fish expertly cut with a single stroke, garnishes designed to magnify the hero ingredients, and, of course, some storytelling—in this case, chef Antonio Park's. Get to know him through flavours spiked with kimchi here, chimichurri there (reflecting his Korean and Argentine roots) and his desire to gift every guest with a memorable experience by introducing us to exceptionally high-quality fish, not to mention real Wagyu beef; the kind that gives you chills.

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Alma

Rich in colour, bursting with flavour, and sprinkled with new taste combinations, an evening at Alma will delight even the most discerning. Chef Juan Lopez Luna is a bon vivant who skillfully juggles his Mexican roots, his adopted city of Montreal, and the restaurant's well-established Catalan trends since day one. The 9-course carte blanche menu will transport you to Mexico multiple times, with a few stops in Catalonia (especially inside your glass). I ate the best taco of my life here, thanks to the homemade corn tortilla (the corn imported from Oaxaca is cooked in lime water, a first in Quebec). In the dining room, a radiant Lindsay Brennan takes control of your wine and cocktail experience—expect to dsicover new things throughout the evening.

Tuck Shop

This discreet little spot firmly holds its ground on buzzing Notre-Dame Street. It's a small spot with a big table. This team doesn't bother with fireworks in the media, and instead focuses on creating them on the plate. After more than 10 years, Tuck Shop is still going strong, even though the concept has hardly changed (one of our greatest pleasures). They shy away from eye-catching trends—both in decor and dishes—and serve honest, flavour-packed, delicious food that's made with love. While the steak frites will never leave the menu, we love diving into seasonal dishes like mushroom toast; Quebec halibut served with lobster bisque; spinach, turnip, squash and ricotta medaglioni and lamb with rapini, tzatziki, and pine nuts. It's a guaranteed delight.

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Foxy

Start your evening off with New Delhi (a delicious concoction of  ginger-infused gin, lime, garam masala spices, and coconut), followed by fabulously soft charcoal-baked flatbread topped with pumpkin puree, roasted pumpkin, kimchi, and spiced oil, and a bitter Caesar-style radicchio salad as a palate cleanser, and you can't go wrong. You'll melt for the hand-rolled cappelletti stuffed with roasted corn and chanterelles, in a light cep broth. And the golden lake perch delicately placed on autumn-inspired garnishes—onions and mushrooms—is a masterpiece. Chef Catherine Couvet Desrosiers excels in pastry, so don't miss the chou farci or the magnificent layer cake. Throw in a cozy atmosphere thanks to the wood-burning fire and impeccable service, and you have an unbeattable night.

Friendly (yet deeply professional) service; unpretentious (yet genuinely delicious) dishes; a wine list that caters to exactly what Montrealers want to drink and an endearing team full of humility? Welcome to Bonheur d'Occasion. The millefeuille has become a must-eat dessert, and only slightly less famous than the hot seafood plate. Expect grilled fish with seasonal garnishes; slightly smoked and grilled black pudding on a bed of crispy corn with hints of tarragon; perfectly grilled beef sirloin served in its jus, potatoes, a few crunchy sucrine leaves and blue cheese balls. It's simple cuisine that just feels good.

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For an elegant evening where you are confident that everything will unfold perfectly—from 5-star service to expertly executed dishes—Le Filet restaurant is always a sure bet. While some dishes on the menu are (thankfully) cast in stone; oysters au gratin with miso, tuna tartare with confit egg, seafood linguine, and grilled octopus—the rest evolves with the seasons, leaving ample room for noble seasonal ingredients. Lobster with burrata and a few sun-dried tomatoes; risotto where peas mingle with morels and a light sprinkle of fresh truffle; and a cod and shrimp salad with asparagus worked in three textures that I'm still dreaming about.

Billy j’ai Faim

Both a midday bistro and ready-to-eat counter, Billy j’ai Faim is charm central. The dining room is adorable but chef Billy's dishes are serious. The menu, shortened to 4-5 starters and a few more mains that change according to the season, holds up alongside the local restaurants. The robust crab roll served with bisque and totally phenomenal fries is just as popular in spring as the veal stew in the fall. The chef's French roots don't lie: the fish soup is fabulous, the sausage and mashed potatoes are everything you could ask for on a cold winter day, and it's possibly one of the only places in town to eat a saucisson brioché Lyonnais outside of Lyon. And dessert does not disappoint.

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You'll truly feel like you're in a British private club that hails back to the 1900s here: arched ceilings, suspended chandeliers, deeply comfortable chairs and banquettes, dim lights and a  majestic staircase. I ws last there for brunch, and I can say with confidence that it was the brunch of the year. The decor isn't the only thing that's "extra" here; a spectacular omelet bathed in leeks and garnished with butter-poached lobster; eggs Benedict with black pudding smothered with hollandaise sauce and sautéed mushrooms; a full English breakfast that will tide you over until the next day... But to kick things off right, start with a plate of pastries—and a mimosa.

Donato

They say the most beautiful things happen when you least expect it. My evening at Donato was one of those moments. I typically stay away from an Italian restaurant where I see raw and grilled fish, meat, pasta, pizza, truffle fries, and a Caesar salad on the same menu because it screams "trying too hard to please" (and the inevitable stumble in execution and quality). But I am very happy to admit that I was wrong. I put it all to the test: grilled octopus served on a fava bean puree sprinkled with herbs; sirloin served simply with olive oil and fleur de sel; lobster spaghetti with a creamy saffron bisque; zucchini, pistachio pesto and ricotta pizza; seasonal greens, and panna cotta with cherries to finish. An embarassment of riches! From the ribeye (ranked among my favourites of the year) to the airy pizza, to spaghetti so tasty that I forgave the fact that it was clishgtly overcooked to sweet panna cotta that melted in my mouth. An impressive wine list with a wide selection by the glass, and a young dynamic team in the dining room complement it all. The bill may add up quickly, but it's worth it.

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