For the average diner, the attention to detail at the new Sushi Nishinokaze in Montreal’s Mile End might seem excessive.
But for the more discerning, the experience is truly transformative.
Nishinokaze is the intimate (and grandiose) project helmed by Chef Vincent Gee and his partner Julian Doan, two “obsessed” sushi lovers with a deep respect for Japanese traditions.
Trained under Taishi Shintaro Suzuki at the prestigious Nishiazabu Sushi Shin—an icon of Japanese gastronomy and part of Japan’s first fleet of Michelin-starred restaurants—Vincent Gee brings a rare expertise to Montreal: Edomae sushi.
Or rather, an obsession for detail.
Their quest for balance between tradition and innovation celebrates rice (shari), artisanal red vinegar (akasu), ingredient traceability, and ancient techniques (aging, marinating, gentle cooking) all the way down to the Nokonoshima blood orange slice that caps off the 20-course menu.
Rice is at the heart of Edomae philosophy. The rice used at Nishinokaze is imported directly from a single Japanese producer to ensure impeccable quality.
"We use two types of cultivars naturally grown without pesticides," explains Julian as I mindfully enjoy another nigiri. "The first for the grain’s circumference, and the second for its adhesion," he specifies.
The rice is carefully cooked over direct heat in a cast-iron hagama before each service, seasoned with red vinegar made from 2006 vintage sake lees. Unlike traditional rice vinegar, akasu provides an umami depth and natural sweetness without added sugar, allowing the rice to reveal its full subtlety.
I am equally impressed by the techniques applied to the fish, which are also inspired by the Edo period. Before being carefully placed in front of us, each fish is prepared to showcase the best qualities of its species. It may have been aged for 5 or 20 days, marinated, salted with sea salt, or even blanched in a shoyu-based broth before being marinated for five days, as explained while serving the ni-hotate (scallop).
During the 150-minute experience in the space designed by architects Justin Nguyen and Taichi Kuma (which also doubles as a living art gallery thanks to Julian Doan generously sharing his personal collection of ceramics—some of which are 400 years old), I enjoyed about 15 different seafood and fish services, interspersed with a barley miso soup and shrimp head juice, a tamago (omelette) and a vegetarian roll.
Sushi Nishinokaze offers a once-in-a-lifetime sushi experience in Montreal (even Canada) that will not leave anyone indifferent.
From the room temperature to the playlist; from the ceramics to the smart Japanese toilet; from the fresh raw northern shrimp to the ones marinated and served in their own juice revealing a completely different spectrum of this crustacean; from fresh wild salmon roe marinated in soy and sake that reveals its true essence; to Kohada fish and the bitter Scarlet Amaro liqueur from Iseya distilled from 25 pesticide-free plants cultivated by a single artisan.
This is an experience that disrupts, surprises, and amazes.
I will never look at rice the same way again.
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Ambiance: The minimalist space, with its natural wood counter and antique ceramics, evokes a living art gallery. The 8-person counter and the proximity to the team encourage conversation and sharing.
What to drink: The wine and sake list extends the refined experience. High-end wines and sakes, ranging from big houses to small artisanal producers. Wine or sake pairings are also available. I personally enjoyed perfectly brewed green tea throughout the evening.
What to eat: A unique menu at $431, including taxes and tip, payable in full at reservation. Water, tea, and any alcoholic beverages are charged separately.
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