72 hours in Milan

For years, those in search of the latest hard-to-track-down sneakers headed to the previous, smaller incarnation of One Block Down. But in March 2016 the company, run by four friends, opened a smart new shop plus café close to the cathedral (Piazza Diaz 2, +39 02 84542491), now one of the buzziest gathering points in Milan. Head here for the latest looks, from Nike’s Lunarepic to Adidas’s Ultra Boost, with rare colored soles. During September 2016 Fashion Week, keep an eye out for exclusive remakes of Nike’s Air Max, a classic in 1990’s Milan. www.oneblockdown.it

This funkily decorated fashion store in a former convent (Via Santa Marta 14, +39 02 72080195) is the place to hunt down emerging fashion and accessory brands. You’ll learn almost as much about what’s hot around town from the clients as from the carefully edited clothes racks (transparent overdresses anyone?) Wittily named home-grown Italian labels include Happy Sheep and Dove nuotano gli squali (Where the sharks swim). The clothes are just as much fun. www.waitandsee.it

In a former workshop surrounded by a wisteria-draped courtyard, NonostanteMarras (Via Cola di Rienzo 8, +39 02 76280991) is the Milanese outpost of Antonio Marras, Sardinia’s eccentric fashion king. Marras’s high concept (and equally highly priced) clothes are displayed amidst criss-crossing rafters and artfully peeling walls—but there’s also a selection of affordable books, jewelry and accessories by other companies, all chiming perfectly with Marras’s quirky style. www.antoniomarras.it/

If you want to splash out on a classic Italian-made leather bag, and budget isn’t a problem, head to Valextra (Via Manzoni 3, +39 02 99786060), whose elegant minimal designs for both men and women are made in an artisanal factory, not far from Milan and established in 1927. Pieces range from trapezoid-shaped Iside handbags to zesty, lime-colored men’s V backpacks for spring 2017. This September, look out for new designs available exclusively in the Milan boutique, to be launched during Women’s Fashion Week. www.valextra.com

Gloriously old-fashioned, this family-run hatter (Corso Buenos Aires 5, +39 02 29523594) transports you back at least a century, to when personal service was the order of the day. Located amid a crowd of chain stores on brash Corso Bueno Aires, its cool, collected atmosphere (checkerboard floor tiles; polished wood fittings) is appreciated by everyone from pensioners to modish hipsters, trying on felt trilbies, colorful cloches or hand-knitted ski berets. www.mutinellicappellimilano.com/

Opened in the former Smeraldo Theatre in 2014, Milan’s branch of Eataly (Piazza XXV Aprile 10, +39 02 49497301)   is a four-story artisan food supermarket, with a host of eateries and a cookery school on the upper floors. Buy hand-rolled pasta and mozzarella—created before your eyes—or sample everything from gourmet fish dishes to ice-cream, made with fresh Alpine milk. www.eataly.it

Tucked away in the Porta Venezia area, this three-floor emporium is the outpost of historic wallpaper brand Jannelli & Volpi (Via Melzo 7, +39 02 205231), known for its graphic, witty wallpapers, still produced in a small factory in Milan. But the shop also stocks a range of design objets and souvenirs from other producers with a similar, colorfully patterned style. Look out for folding fans made from J&V’s own wallpapers and notebooks adorned with sketches by famous architects from around town. www.jannellievolpi.it

A bookshop specialising in both paper and digital, Open (Viale Monte Nero 6, +39 02 83425610) doubles as a cultural center and café. There’s also an outdoor roof terrace and a 40-seat co-working office area, with Wi-Fi, printers and meeting rooms. With its sofas and communal table by Lago, the space is a popular meeting point for Milan’s young and fashionable set. www.openmilano.com

Alice says: “Open bookshop was one of the best finds of my recent trip to Milan, it has such a laid-back attitude and welcomes you to read books in their vast library. With books ranging from philosophy to politics, the shop itself is very industrial-looking juxtaposed with bright coloured furniture, making it a very distinctive place to explore.”

This proudly traditional sweet shop (Via Victor Hugo 2, +39 02 86464833) is the place to get your chocolate fix while in town. Don’t miss the marrons glacés, made daily following an 1898 family recipe, or choose sweet-and-sour cape gooseberries, dipped in chocolate. The pralines filled with mint, nougat or orange are just as good. www.giovannigalli.com

Moods (Via Cesariano 10, +39 392 4187300) showcases three floors of colorful vintage and recent season fashions in a fresh, white boutique. Latest finds include tailored white jackets by Dolce & Gabbana and gold spiked sandals by Christian Louboutin, all at prices you can afford. Moods also carries a selection of special pieces to hire from the 1920s-1980s, plus new designs by upcoming labels like cult designer Viola by Pullover, who made her name on Instagram. 

Alice says: “Nestled at the foot of Chinatown is a vintage shop called Moods, which is very cool and filled with trinkets over three floors. It’s got lots of vintage and independent brands, set against a cool boutique backdrop. I love this shop because the pieces are handpicked and it’s curated in such an interesting way, meaning that there is something for everyone.”

Monza Race Weekend kicks off on September 1 with a public walk around the pit lane, followed by a chance to score some of the drivers’ autographs (for those who have paid for a full three days). Practice sessions run through September 2 and 3, before segueing into the qualifying round. Excitement then revs up as the proper race begins.

American and British indie folk musicians and rockers populate the line-up at this alternative festival. The festival is held at the Circolo Arci Magnolia—a cultural club near Milan’s Idroscalo which is an artificial lake once used for sea-planes. Platinum-selling UK rockers Editors play alongside Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros, Daughter, Flo Morrissey and The Strumbellas, over two nights of spectacular sounds.

Held at Monza’s racetrack from 6pm to 1am, this series of late summer concerts is headlined by platinum-selling American rapper 50 Cent, on September 9. Support acts include Italian hip-hop group Entics and dance DJ Eddie Queen.

With the scent of the recent racing championships still lingering in the air, this is a chance to participate in one of four runs along the Monza racetrack circuit and adjacent park—from a 5.7km sprint following the exact race car route to a 30km marathon around the racetrack and beyond.

In early September, thrill-seekers can speed around the Monza racetrack in a self-drive a Lamborghini Gallardo (from E215), thanks to Puresport, a company that hires out cars and organizes driving experiences at the Autodromo on a couple of designated days each month. Trained instructors are available so you can get the most out of the track.

Anyone interested in getting up to speed on Italian rock music could do worse than to pop into this exhibition on some of its biggest names, shot by international photographer Giovanni Gastel for Rolling Stone Italia magazine. Afterwards, take time to check out the rest of the Villa Reale, a 600-room Royal Savoy palace, where Mozart once played in the mirrored ballroom, known (quite rightly) as Monza’s answer to Versailles.