I had a thought just as we walked into Sunny’s, passing through the nondescript entrance among Little River warehouses, through the courtyard lit by twinkly lights and into the stately dining rooms that encircle it. Then it became clear: This is mainland Miami's answer to the legendary Joe’s Stone Crab on Miami Beach.
Sunny’s is just as celebratory as Joe’s, a space that’s buzzing with servers and busboys and customers, where the food just nearly outshines the space. Like a modern, trendy version of Joe’s, Sunny’s wears newer clothes in a fledgling neighborhood, with a supper-club-like dining room and a stunning courtyard anchored by a very old banyan tree.
The hanger steak came well-dried, seared black, pink yet warm in the center, a fragrant périgourdine sauce on the side. I’ve not met a better steak.
The original Sunny’s pop-up was run by the team behind the much-missed Jaguar Sun, co-owners Carey Hynes and Will Thompson. Now, they’ve brought in ex-Edge chef Aaron Brooks to run the kitchen. The theme is steakhouse classics turned sideways, as in the Caesar dominated by super-crisp fried breadcrumbs. Steak tartare is pre-slathered on sourdough above a burnt leek aioli that adds sophistication to the dish.
Things veer from a traditional steakhouse with a pasta section. The toothy rigatoni came with a pork tomato sauce that’s surprisingly smoky. The agnolotti with blue crab, corn and saffron tasted deeply of the sea. The steaks are headlined by a $260 wagyu ribeye, but I went with the $38 hanger that came all the ways it should: well-dried, seared black, pink yet warm in the center, a fragrant périgourdine sauce on the side. I’ve not met a better steak.
After the server drizzled toffee sauce on our banana cheesecake, a manager offered a kitchen tour. We angled between dashing servers by the skinny pass-through as flames shot from the grill.
The whole thing, the ambiance, the food and the tour, reminded me again of Joe’s, a place that always feels like a production, like a special night out, like you want to return. Sunny’s, nice to meet you, my new old friend.
The vibe A classy party that breezes between a tree-covered courtyard and stylish dining rooms.
The food Modern takes on steakhouse classics paired with original inventions from a talented head chef.
The drink There’s a deep wine list and house-made cocktails, but make it a production with the tableside martini service.
Time Out tip Dress up, spend some cash on top-notch steaks and turn this into something special; or stay casual, order the tartare and the hangar steak and still leave very happy.