Out behind Eden Roc, next to the resort’s pool and not far from the hard-packed sands of South Beach, there’s a restaurant space we expected to be a tourist trap. With those views, they could have sold soggy fish sandwiches and it’d still be a hit.
Instead, Eden Roc brought in Tristen Epps to run Ocean Social’s kitchen. Formerly at the helm of Marcus Samuellson’s Red Rooster in Overtown, Epps presents a coastal seafood menu that’d kill in a strip-mall parking lot. The dishes at Ocean Social are filled with just-picked, locally sourced and recently caught ingredients—good enough, hopefully, to draw locals to this touristy strip of Miami Beach.
Epps’ arrival at Ocean Social coincided with a refresh of the space, which varies from open-sky seating to a covered patio thanks to a retractable roof. It’s mostly blonde wood and beige cushions, bench seating and banquet-style tables. The clean, breezy aesthetic allows for the fewest distractions: We spent our lunch looking east, out past the sea grass and the sand to the azure water just beyond it.
The dishes follow suit, lighter fare ideal for quelling the sunburn most everyone here has spent the morning acquiring. The white gazpacho is chilled and creamy, with paper-thin slices of apple and a tiny scoop of sorbet floating on top. The ceviche is ultra-tangy from the lime-heavy sauce, and the pizza with a dazzling fan of avocado is pretty enough to steal the show from those beach views—if only for the few minutes it takes to devour.
Mostly, though, this menu is about the seafood, done up rather inventively, especially for a spot that’s likely serving a whole lot of soon-to-be cruise ship passengers. There's rock shrimp spaghetti with Gold Bar squash and brown butter; fish and grits with Swank Farms tomatoes and flounder (who serves flounder to tourists?); and a dry-aged swordfish t-bone with braised brisket and mustardy brassicas greens.
Before coming here, Epps built a serious CV. He worked for Thomas Keller and Marcus Samuelsson, won on his episode of the Food Network show “Chopped,” picked up a Bib Gourmand from Michelin and earned a Rising Star recognition from StarChefs. Now at the Eden Roc, overseeing culinary operations for an iconic South Beach hotel, it seems his star has officially risen.