Out of all the hotly anticipated Miami restaurant openings of 2024, Mother Wolf in the Design District might be the hottest of them all. It ticks every Miami dining box: a trendy concept, a celebrity chef and a design as stunning as a Brickell sunset.
Is it worth splurging your hard-earned (or not) bitcoin profits here? The answer comes with an asterisk. Mother Wolf is a visually dazzling space with Italian classics that range from stellar to slightly uneven. Even with its flaws, it’s one of the most special-feeling spots in Miami right now.
The experience begins with a foyer fountain, a guy playing an ivory grand piano and a pasta lab where chefs cut noodles in controlled humidity. Beyond ornate curtains lies a massive, dimly lit dining room buzzing with energy. It feels important, like a pivotal movie scene in progress.
This is the third location of chef Evan Funke’s Mother Wolf empire. Known for his Roman-inspired cooking, Funke adds coastal influences to the Miami menu, combining the flavors of Italy’s capital with ingredients of seaside villages.
The meal started strong with a lightly dressed salad alongside focaccia as fluffy as mascarpone. Then came a standout: ropa vieja-like short rib meatballs, battered and stacked, with red sauce and cheese. The oozy burrata island on a red sauce pizza was another highlight.
But for a place that specializes in it, the pasta course flabbergasted me. While the spaghettini with uni and the rigatoni with guanciale were initially tasty, the starchy sauces soon turned gummy. Compounding this was spotty service (nobody asked about those pastas, for instance); despite a sea of staff, few seemed like seasoned pros.
The latter courses shined again. Skewered scallops, perfectly charred and served over greens, impressed, as did the towering sorbetto with its citrus tang. Drinks were excellent: creative cocktails and an extensive wine.
Mother Wolf has its stumbles, but it’s gorgeous, fun and gets plenty right. With this vibe, it’s likely Mother Wolf Miami will thrive—no matter what hot new Miami restaurant opens next.
The vibe: A modern Italian supper club that’s as buzzy as they come.
The food: Coastal Roman dishes from a chef obsessed with pasta making.
The drink: Creative (and pricey) cocktails alongside a varied by-the-glass wine list.
Time Out tip: To soak up the full experience, ask your waiter to course out your meal Italian-style: appetizers, pasta, then proteins.