For years, Macchialina was a plainly dressed South Beach Italian restaurant serving food far more elevated than its digs. After a renovation and expansion earlier this summer, the neighborhood spot has reaffirmed its standing as a beloved institution on Alton Road—one that deserves a revisit if you haven’t stopped in lately.
The new look is familiar and rustic with exposed beams and sensuous details like a thick slab bartop, moody lighting and leafy tropical plants scattered throughout. Based on the dinner I had recently, what’s unchanged are the friendly atmosphere and excellent food from Queens-born chef Michael Pirolo. House-made pasta is still the star, delivered by servers who make everybody feel like regulars.
The entrance is a well-weathered gate that feels almost speakeasy-like. Follow a tight walkway down to the back where the courtyard has expanded. Inside, rows of tables and curvy banquettes draw your eye to the open kitchen. It’s not just that you’ll no longer have to apologize to the table next to you when getting up; this is a handsome, airy space that now lives up to the food.
My table went with the four-course tasting menu ($70 per person) that arrives family-style. The $55 wine pairing turns up generous and drinkable pours. For our starters, the kitchen sent out burrata and cherry tomatoes on crusty bread, a soft-poached egg above sauteed greens and a delicate yet punchy crudo.
From there came pasta: spaghetti pomodoro that tasted like tomatoes just pulled from the vine; toothy, cheese-filled agnolotti in butter-sage sauce, and linguine in mushroom truffle cream. The meat course was a pretty fileted branzino in an oniony mornay. And then came limoncello with a bread pudding and a dollop of whipped ricotta so rich it became the night’s highlight.
With the wine pairing, we didn’t hit the drink menu this time, but it’s an extensive list of cocktails, wines and after-dinner drinks. We also didn’t add on the dreamy polenta dish that, in retrospect, ought never to be skipped. It’s a reason to go back. Better yet, it’s an excuse to keep a rolling reservation and maybe even become a regular at this little neighborhood Italian joint that has very much grown up.