Most everywhere you go, tortillas are like the white bread of a meatloaf sandwich, simply a vehicle to move tasty things into your piehole. Not at Los Félix, which takes its tortillas, and actually everything they do, very seriously.
The tortillas here are made from imported Mexican corn ground by a volcano rock in a molino, or old-school mill, set up right in the center of the dining room. The fresh masa that comes out of the mill is then pressed into little disks and grilled; you should try them on their own, picking up the nutty, toasty goodness of something great because it’s also so simple.
The servers are knowledgeable and attentive, and the vibe is cool, feeling like a happening chef-driven spot in Mexico City’s Polanco neighborhood.
From there, things get far more complex at Los Félix: a carpaccio of beets looking like a springtime flower, a blue corn quesadilla with multi-colored squash blossoms fanning out from the opening, meaty mushrooms blooming from the crispy sopes, well-spiced pibil shrimp in a pair of tacos, and pork cheeks stewed into the most tender of carnitas. All this care they’ve put into the food will cost you: servings are small and the prices are not—expect a hundred bucks or so per person, a hefty sum for tacos and the like. But the servers are knowledgeable and attentive, and the vibe is cool, feeling like a happening chef-driven spot in Mexico City’s Polanco neighborhood.
Tables out front take in the heart of Coconut Grove, and a hipster-ready natural wine bar awaits up the spiral staircase in the back. Ask the staff to explain the tortilla press and they’ll take you over to the authentic molino—or maybe you should just ask for another order of tortillas to sneak in to your pocket for later.
