For years, Itamae served as a litmus test. Adventurous eaters would explore their limits with things like candied mushrooms atop spicy tuna, or a fresh catch sushi roll with a hairdo of shaved parm and swimming in leche de tigre. These unusual and highly original Japanese-Peruvian combinations always turned out to be wonderfully delicious.
In May 2024, chef Nando Chang reimagined his family’s concept as Itamae AO, a fiercely personal omakase-style counter in Midtown that currently costs $213 including tax and tip per seat. And while the new Itamae still aims to challenge the adventurous, many of its tiny plates were simply not enjoyable to eat during our visit.
It began with my very first bite: ponzu with white grapes, an umami dropkick as salty as the dregs in a potato chip bag. The misses continued with a squid ceviche as chewy as bubblegum and eel that looked a bit like the remnants of another dish.
I searched for complexity in the 42-day dry-aged tuna slice, but could not find it beyond the potent fish market smell. Near the end of the multi-course meal, those candied mushrooms from Itamae’s previous life made an appearance in dessert, a custard that was overpowered by their earthiness.
You enter Itamae AO through a door in the bar at Maty’s, the restaurant helmed by Nando’s sister Valerie Chang, a newly crowned James Beard Best Chef winner. While passing through, I spotted the ceviche with tortitas corn fritters, one of Miami’s best dishes—a happy reminder of the Changs’ talents.
There were also encouraging signs at Itamae AO of what Chef Nando can do: a hand roll with clam and uni rice as rich as risotto; the dainty one-piece roll that, even with anchovy sauce, still tasted like the stone crab at the center; the shaved ice with a delicate lychee foam made savory with olive oil and salt. These original and very delicious dishes are the reasons we’re still recommending Itamae AO. They give us hope that, with time, it can be as great as we want it to be.