Omakases in Miami takes you through secret doors to hidden backrooms and, occasionally, dark rooms. At Inoshin, inside the Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club, Surfside, you’re taken somewhere even more exclusive: the private lounge atop the historic Hemingway Tower. Opened in late November, the pop-up (a permanent restaurant is in the works) is helmed by husband and wife restaurateurs Key Kim and Mihyun Ha—partners in New York's Michelin-starred Kosaka—and veteran chef Shinichi Inoue.
You’ll enter through the wrought-iron gate halfway down the lobby corridor and take the steep, narrow stairs to the dining room. The tiling and much of the look are original to the 1930s when old Ernest supposedly spent time here. Once inside, the intimate, six-seat sushi counter (otherwise a bar) greets diners, who can also enjoy a meal at one of several small tables. We opted for the counter, where I climbed surely the tallest stool my 5’2 frame has ever met. Safely tucked in (the server had to help), our multi-course meal began.
The $200 omakase starts with small Japanese plates and includes sashimi, nine pieces of nigiri, miso soup, dessert, and tea. Drinks and food are served on the most exquisite Japanese ceramic pieces in varying sizes and patterns. Our dinnerware was an ornate clear crystal, but we noticed that neighbors on either side had dishes in bold hues of blue and red. It was distracting, in a good way.
Inoshin’s starters and nigiri combinations also stood out. I was served umi no foagura—monkfish liver—for the first time. It’s known as the foie gras of the sea and was every bit as rich and silky as its land-based counterpart. Yellowtail made two very different appearances, my favorite preparation being three aged pieces served over a shiso leaf and topped with chopped scallions.
Warm miso soup capped off the savory portion, followed by a slice of fresh Japanese melon and a cup of warm tea for dessert. I appreciated the authenticity of serving a prized fruit with my meal, but I hoped for something more substantial. Matcha ice cream? Panna cotta? I had to remind myself this wasn’t Benihana but the Four Seasons.
The vibe: Exclusive with a pop-up feel—the space lacks identity, but dining in the hotel’s private lounge is still fun.
The food: Authentic Japanese omakase featuring imaginative preparations.
The drink: Find a solid sake selection, as well as a full bar.
Time Out tip: Request a seat at the counter. The dining room is fine, but the real draw is watching chef Shinichi Inoue work his magic.