It used to be easy for the haters of Miami’s clubstaurants. Not long ago, the number of disco balls hanging over the dining room had a direct relation to the mediocrity of a restaurant’s food. Nowadays, though, you can actually eat well at some of those places where patrons take to dancing on tables.
For example, we’ve had quite good meals at Mila, Queen and, if you can get past the garish glass animal sculptures everywhere, even Sexy Fish. Perched on the Miami River, Mediterranean hotspot Casa Neos is the best spot yet for indulging in that clubby Miami vibe with an exceptional brunch or dinner.
The latest restaurant from Riviera Dining Group is undeniably gorgeous, spanning two floors of Venetian plastered walls, rich, rustic furnishings and glass sliders that look out over a scenic strip of Miami’s laidback commercial waterway. Sunsets reflect in waves created by passing yachts, and the skyline of Brickell rises beyond. When I visited on a recent Friday, the plush booths and low-slung armchairs were utterly packed, with tables turning quickly and pretty people crowding the bar.
Casa Neos would attract this crowd by the scene alone. But presiding over the menu is Michaël Michaelidis, a chef with French and Greek roots and a CV that includes a remarkable 26 Michelin stars at restaurants in Cannes, Monaco, Hong Kong, Singapore and Tokyo. This helps give Casa Neos an edge over similar spots on the beach.
Everything I had was spot-on, starting with the grilled blue prawns served simply with charred lemon and just enough espelette pepper to not mess with the buttery shellfish. Tomatoes come with fresh burrata and frozen stracciatella, an interesting and welcome twist on a hot night.
The whole branzino looks downright stunning on a sunburst platter, fileted tableside and served with aioli. Lobster pasta comes neatly twirled in the shell with ample lobster meat and a decadent bisque poured over to finish. I was crazy for the chocolate lava cake, even with its “CASA NEOS” stamp on top designed to make your followers jealous.
We’re beginning to accept a new reality in Miami, in which club-slash-restaurants can indeed also be culinary destinations in their own right. From the glamorous Miami ambiance to well-executed Mediterranean dishes, Casa Neos does it all very well.