My first couple of visits to Flora Plant Kitchen were somewhat reluctant, I’ll admit. As someone who’s lived in the area for years and watched the old News Lounge space change hands over and over, I was cautiously optimistic when renovations for a new concept began more than a year ago. A vegetarian restaurant wasn’t high on my wishlist of new neighborhood spots.
Still, the charming outdoor patio with its thatched roof and swaying basket lanterns lured me, along with aromas of potent espresso and fresh-baked pastries. Flora, it turned out, was a lovely spot for a morning catch-up with a friend. I found no fault in the earthy and sleek wood-clad dining room, nor in the vegetarian brunch (though my morning appetite typically calls for meat). With its newly launched dinner service, however, I’m officially sold.
Flora Plant Kitchen serves mostly vegetables, but it’s not vegan. That means you’ll find animal products like dairy and eggs on the menu, which is a relief for anyone who’s ever considered going plant-based and shuddered at the thought of a life without cheese. Owner Marnie Gelhard conceived of Flora with the noble (and more practical) idea that skipping meat for even one meal a week has a positive impact on the planet. She tapped Cuban-American chef Fabio Delgado to helm the kitchen, and his new dinner menu is actually all the convincing I need.
Who needs meat when a veggie tartare of charcoal asparagus and tricolor heirloom carrots tastes better than the real thing? Really! My favorite dish of the night was drizzled with yuzu hollandaise and served with a side of yuka and mushroom chicharrón with mixed seeds. I am not embellishing when I say that the mushroom chicharrón delivered the same salty, umami, melt-in-your-mouth magic as the pork version (and maybe even tasted better knowing no animal was harmed in its creation.)
Another highlight from my meal was the Mushroom & Mash, a juicy and sizable maitake mushroom and Swiss chard grilled over charcoal and served in a bright and tangy sauce, paired with the silkiest truffle mashed potatoes. It hit every note you’d want out of a hearty, meaty main. For dessert, we ordered the pavlova, a deconstructed rendition full of subtle tropical flavors: yuzu meringue, white matcha ganache, and mixed berry compote served over vanilla and guanabana ice cream. We devoured the entire thing.
If you’ve dined at Flora in the daytime, you’ve probably already speculated how beautiful the restaurant would be at night—and it is. The warm glow of the lanterns and trickling water fountains add to the romantic ambiance. Inside, a large bar will soon serve a full menu of cocktails, but for now, you can enjoy a curated selection of beer and wine with your meal. (I opted for a glass of orange wine, followed by a lovely pinot noir.)
Whether you’re already committed to a vegetarian diet, into the idea of making healthier choices for yourself and the planet or just love delicious food, full stop, dinner at Flora Plant Kitchen is a worthy destination for your next evening out in Miami.
Flora Plant Kitchen is located at 5580 NE 4th Ct #4b in Miami. Dinner service is Wednesday through Saturday from 6 to 10pm. For more information, visit www.floraplantkitchen.com.
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