Where to eat and drink
Many say a stay in Mildura is incomplete without a meal at Stefano’s. The Stefano in question is Stefano de Pieri – and for anyone familiar with A Gondola on the Murray and his new show Australia's Food Bowl, his name will ring a bell. The Venetian-born chef migrated to Australia in the ‘70s and has since brought his Italian-style ‘cucina povera’ cooking to the glowing cellars of the Mildura Grand Hotel. Simple dishes are packed with flavour here. As de Pieri puts it: “I’m not interested in excess or in the use of any ingredient superfluous to achieving full flavour through the simplest means.” Treat yourself to the five-course set menu when you’re next in town.
Victoria is home to many gin distilleries, but Fossey's might be one of the prettiest. This distillery was started by former winemaker – now self-proclaimed “gin-novator” – Steve Timmis with the idea to make gin (and whisky) in an otherwise underutilised part of what used to be a men’s club. The plan was to open one day a week to allow locals to watch and have a drink while Timmis and co distiller Tash worked the stills. These days you can still watch them work in the distillery (on Thursdays usually) but Fossey’s is now open four days a week from Thursday to Sunday, offering tasting paddles and cocktails to guests in their cosy bar space (it used to be a library) or alfresco area under fairy-lit grapevine trellises. In addition to gin and whisky, Fossey’s also makes rum, vodka and a bottled Gin Toddy that really warms the cockles of your heart.
For a slice of Melbourne coffee culture in Mildura, head to Brass Monkey. The café was a dinner service bar and restaurant until early 2021, when owner Adam Pritchard switched to a daytime model to allow him more time with his family. The café is housed in a 100-year-old, heritage-listed building (a former grocer – make sure to check out the ceiling and skylight) and features the sort of semi-industrial aesthetic and quality coffee (Code Black to be specific) you’d find in Fitzroy. The all-day menu is inspired by street food, says Pritchard, with brekky dishes like avo toast (sliced, not smashed) and coffee-infused French toast featuring alongside Birria tacos, lamb shoulder served with baba ganoush and flatbread, and roast pork belly salad.
Andy Nguyen started Andy’s Kitchen with the idea of creating a restaurant where everyone feels at home. After visiting – and talking to a few locals – Nguyen has certainly achieved that endeavour, producing one of Mildura’s most bustling venues that also just happens to be one of the friendliest (Andy’s even offered essential workers free meals, no questions asked, during the 2020 lockdowns). Nguyen has a Vietnamese background, though Andy’s Kitchen spans a wide variety of cuisines from across Asia, including Chinese, Thai and Malaysian (if you’re after distinctly Vietnamese cuisine, try his other Mildura venue, Mr Bun Mi). The menu changes seasonally and draws from the bounty of produce grown locally – ask for the daily specials if you really want to see the chefs’ creativity shine. And while Andy’s Kitchen looks like a regular restaurant from the street, those seated out the back will get to see the Balinese-style outdoor space the team have created.