Where to eat in Tokyo and Okinawa

The city is known for both its gastronomy and its wacky side, and the two fuse at one of Tokyo’s many themed cafés and restaurants. For a dose of technicolour, go to the Kawaii Monster Café, curated by kawaii expert Sebastian Masuda, where you can try rainbow-coloured pastas and more; or have the waiters sneak up on you at Ninja Akasaka. Totoro and Spirited Away fans can eat to their hearts’ content at the Café Mugiwara Boushi, inside the Ghibli Museum, while the lovable Finnish Moomin characters have captured the hearts of so many in Japan that there’s a Moomin Bakery and Café in both Oshiage and Tokyo Dome.

Tokyo’s skyline is a sight to behold, and what better way to enjoy it than with a drink in hand? For the best views of Tokyo Tower at night, start heading to the upper floors around dusk to see the city slowly transform. Get up close and personal at the Sky Lounge Stellar Garden, which is literally next to Tokyo Tower, with Xex Atago Green Hills being a close second. Elsewhere, the Andaz Tokyo’s Rooftop Bar, the Mandarin Oriental’s Oriental Lounge and the classic Park Hyatt’s Peak Bar all have views of Tokyo Tower and the Tokyo Skytree. For more information on these bars see Time Out Tokyo.

The stretch underneath the track between Yurakucho and Shinbashi stations is salaryman central, making it the perfect place to head for a taste of simple fare such as karaage fried chicken, yakitori, and copious amounts of beer. Shin-Hinomoto, aka Andy’s as it's run by a British guy, is always packed and remains an English-friendly option. For a proper outdoor feel, try to grab a crate to sit on at Izakaya Tanuki, while the under-the-tracks-vibe continues at Yaoki Yurakucho, the photogenic Rashomon, Shimizu Honten, and Yakiton Mako-chan, which specialises in pork skewers.

Tokyo’s famed fish market moved a few kilometres down the road in October 2018, but there’s still plenty to discover at Tsukiji, as the entire outer market, with all its sushi restaurants, is still there. Go for breakfast or lunch, as restaurants tend to sell out of the day’s catch pretty early.
Have a full nigiri set at Tsukiji Suzutomi Sushi Tomi, Tsukiji Itadori Bekkan, or the Sushi Zanmai chain, which does great tuna sets. If you prefer a rice bowl, have the very well topped tuna donburi at Segawa.

Right across from Ueno Station is Ameyoko, one of Tokyo’s most buzzing shotengai, or shopping streets. From its origins as a black market after World War II, Ameyoko remains one of Tokyo’s bargain havens, whether for souvenir goods or food. Unlike the rest of Tokyo, there’s also plenty of street food. Snack your way through the area with fruit skewers from New Fruits, croquettes filled with meat from Niku no Oyama, Minatoya Honten’s takoyaki (octopus balls), or Usagiya’s dorayaki (red bean paste pancake). Finish off with an order of fresh sashimi at one of Ueno’s many izakaya, such as Kanoya.

Here's a food experience you can't eat, but is nonetheless a Tokyo must. Restaurant and café shopfronts across Tokyo are filled with plastic food samples, often ones so hyper-realistic that you’d like to take a bite right then and there. For the largest concentration of samples and to see where restaurateurs get their goods, make a beeline for Kappabashi Kitchen Town near Asakusa. Amongst the myriad kitchen good stores, you’ll find Ganso Shokuhin Sample-ya, a shop that specialises in the plastic foods. Besides a rather decent selection of souvenir goods, they even host workshops where you can try and make your own plastic cabbage or tempura shrimp.