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[title]Beginning atop the snowy Australian Alps, the Murray River winds westerly along the border of Victoria and New South Wales then veers into South Australia, where it eventually meets the sea. It’s a long journey for a continuous body of water, made all the more impressive by the idyllic countryside, spirited communities and diverse cultural offerings that line its banks.
As part of our partnership with Visit Victoria for their ‘Stay close, go further’ campaign, along with Murray Regional Tourism, we took an invigorating trip along Australia’s longest river, traversing the wetlands and tributaries that give life to this lush, green part of Victoria. Starting in Albury-Wodonga, then making our way west to Yarrawonga, we got to experience nature, culture, food and serenity in a soulful, fertile landscape with something for everyone. Welcome to the Murray.
Huon Hill Lookout | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
DAY ONE: ALBURY AND MORE
Let it all sink in at Huon Hill Lookout
There’s no better place to start your journey than Huon Hill Lookout, a three and a quarter hour drive from Melbourne. Rising more than 250 metres above sea level, this expansive lookout offers clear views to Albury, Wodonga, Lake Hume, Mount Bogong, Kiewa Valley and beyond. Get the lay of the land and a true sense of how vast, beautiful and unique this region of Australia is. (Having begun our Murray trip here, we circle back on our way home to take it in again – a view made all the more incredible once we’d experienced the region’s offerings first hand.)
River Deck Café | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
Linger over lunch on the Murray at River Deck
River Deck Café is an Albury institution, and while it changed hands recently you can rest assured the experience is better than ever. Tucked away in leafy Noreuil Park, along gum-tree lined banks of the Murray, this café is sure to please with its excellent coffee, thoughtful selection of wines and beers, and ever-evolving menu of contemporary Australian dishes. To start, we lock lips with some Fried Chicken Ribs, generously seasoned with spices then double-coated in sticky, tangy barbecue sauce. We follow this with a wholesome rice bowl with teriyaki mushrooms alongside the barramundi, grilled to perfection and served with crisp golden chips.
Murray River Canoe Hire | Photograph: Supplied/Visit Victoria
Paddle the Murray in a canoe from Murray River Canoe Hire
Based in Albury, local man Dave is known around town as ‘the canoe guy’, and since 1991 he’s been casting off tourists into the serene stretch of river that runs between Albury, Corowa, Lake Hume and Yarrawonga. While this might take some out of their comfort zone, it’s a quintessential Murray experience you won’t soon forget. Sit back, relax and revel in the stillness of this picturesque Australian landscape as your canoe or kayak ambles gently along (of course, some paddling is required). This is best experienced with a friend, partner or family member – ideally someone with a good sense of balance.
'Wiradjuri Woman' by Leonie Mcintosh | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
Wander through history with the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk
The Wiradjuri people are the traditional owners of the river and wetlands near Albury-Wodonga. Prior to European colonisation, the Murray was seen by the Wiradjuri as the ‘giver of life’ and navigated in bark canoes. Looping through the Wonga Wetlands (see While You're There below), the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk celebrates the enduring culture of the Wiradjuri with a series of contemporary sculptural works created by locals. Taking roughly half an hour, this intriguing walk offers a glimpse into the customs past and present of the area’s traditional owners. A highlight is the sculpture of three ‘Gugaburras' by Peter Ingram, installed in West Albury – depicting three friendly kookaburras, a bird with totemic significance in Wiradjuri country.
Andiamo tasting platter | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
Have an evening picnic with a tasting platter from Andiamo
There are plenty of dining options in Albury-Wodonga but as we’re in the mood to eat alfresco we pick up a grazing platter from Pinchos, the catering arm of Andiamo. This popular takeaway in a shipping container in Junction Square offers contemporary Mediterranean-style street food and authentic European flavours in the heart of Wodonga. The platter has charcuterie, fruits, cheeses and more, and luckily we are staying somewhere with the perfect picturesque background where we can enjoy it…
Huon Creek Retreat | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
Make yourself at home at Huon Creek Retreat
Grand, gorgeous and impeccably styled, Huon Creek Retreat is ideal for large families or groups of friends looking to get away from it all and soak up some nature. Owners Laura and Danny have curated beautiful, generous spaces carefully tailored to bring people together – a sentiment that’s evident in every aspect of the home. From the refined yet comfortable living spaces to the fully furnished kitchen and dining area and the open fire on the back patio, everything has been considered to make you feel right at home. The only downside? At some point you’ll have to leave.
Websters Estate | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
DAY TWO & THREE: YARRAWONGA AND SURROUNDS
Drink in the view at Websters Estate
With a beautiful day on our hands, we take a drive around Lake Hume where we swiftly find ourselves immersed in wine country. Our first stop for the day is Websters Estate, a vineyard and winery run by charming local Jo Wade and her family. With a stunning view of the weir framed by row upon row of auburn grape vines, Websters feels like paradise. The estate’s flagship wine is a rich, full-bodied and hearty shiraz named for the matriarch of Jo’s family, her Grandma Pearl. After sampling this and a few other wines and settling on a crisp, dry Prosecco, we ordered a platter of moorish bacon and leek quiches and aromatic arancini – handmade by Jo that morning – alongside a spread of local cheeses.
The Boat Shed, Lake Hume | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
Palms, pools and pizza at the Boat Shed
Don’t let the towering palms, shimmering pool or striped banana lounges fool you, you’re still in the hills and high country of southern New South Wales. Perched on the western edge of Lake Hume and overlooking the weir in all its glory, the Boat Shed has the relaxed yet refined charm of a tropical resort – and a tennis court to boot. Warm, friendly and attentive staff make it so easy to spend an afternoon or evening here, courtside, poolside or barside (we actually recommend precisely that order). Whether it’s brunch, lunch, dinner or something in between, the restaurant’s affordable menu will keep you smiling all day. We fall in love with the Pork Belly Bites, perfect little morsels of fatty, crunchy, crackly happiness, but the woodfired pizzas served by the pool steal the show. Some say the margarita is the ultimate test of a pizza maker, and we’re pleased to report that the Boat Shed’s is outstanding, due in no small part to their housemade sugo.
Lake Mulwala | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
Explore beautiful Lake Mulwala
There’s just something special about Lake Mulwala. Once a dense forest of red gums on the border of Victoria and New South Wales, in 1937 this vast swathe of land was cleared, by hand, by the local community – then flooded. Initially intended to improve agriculture and service the nearby towns, Lake Mulwala has since become a thriving destination for fishing, boating and water sports. While human activity often comes at the cost of nature, the reservoir is integral to the timeless beauty and wonder of this landscape – and we couldn’t take our eyes off it. There are plenty of great spots to marvel at it, but our favourite was the boardwalk on Drain Lane in Yarrawonga.
Criterion Hotel | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
Dinner at the Criterion Hotel
As evening rolls around, head back to town and stop by the Criterion Hotel to shoot some pool with Yarrawonga locals and have a first-rate parma and pint of craft beer. A local icon, the Criterion makes the most of its prime lakeside position with a large deck. The menu covers contemporary pub favourites, and if you prefer you can pick up a pizza to go here.
The Sebel Yarrawonga | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
Bask in lakeside luxury at the Sebel Yarrawonga
Perched on the grassy shore of picturesque Lake Mulwala, the Sebel is unrivalled in Yarrawonga. Contemporary architecture, luxurious lodgings and the finest amenities will invariably lull you into a state of bliss – but it’s the connection to nature that makes this a must-stay when touring the region. We rouse ourselves for sunrise and promptly rewarded the effort with breakfast at Stock and Barrel, the hotel’s restaurant. There’s no better way to start the day than with a hearty serve of poached eggs and Hollandaise – unless you’re also watching the sun crest the hills and shimmer across the lake. After breakfast we stroll around the grounds (quietly so as not to disturb the anglers lining the shore) then take a dip in the infinity pool. As afternoon arrives (how time flies!) we venture into the hotel’s wellness centre, Sol, for a massage and magnesium bath. Tough life, we know.
Wonga Wetlands | Photograph: Carmen Zammit
WHILE YOU’RE THERE…
Bird watching: Keep your eyes peeled for a majestic Regent Honeyeater at the Wonga Wetlands, an area just outside of Albury with a diverse bird population that makes it a twitcher’s paradise.
Cool café: Still have room? Enjoy a heavenly slice at Blacksmith Provedore in Yarrawonga, an all-day café, restaurant and bar serving cooked-to-perfection pizzas and creative cocktails. Grab a table outside in the shade of the olive trees, Aperol Spritz in hand, and let the afternoon drift by.
Winery: Take a drive out to Squires Winery in Esmond near Yarrawonga for a glass of sustainably made wine on the deck or under the gumtrees down by the river.