When you first step into the stylish airlock entrance at Stokehouse, the transportation to another world is immediate. Suspended in the liminal space, the door behind you closes and the noisy buzz of St Kilda’s busy streets fades to a calming hum. A journey begins. Up the stairs, we head to the first floor where the magic awaits. The host is attentive and charming from the outset, offering to take our coats and guiding us to our seats before introducing the other service staff who’ll be taking care of us for the night. But while impressed, we’re not really surprised.
'Beach' is not the first word you think of when it comes to Melbourne. Rainy streets and romantic European-style bistros, sure. Steaming cups of espresso and artsy fashion boutiques down laneways, absolutely. But 'beach'? Nah.
That’s just one of the things we love about Stokehouse, which for more than three decades now (and counting), has magically achieved the seemingly impossible. The multi-storied luxe beach house slash relaxed diner transports our serious city-fatigued souls to a cool and calming Aussie seaside escape. It’s got all the necessary ingredients: picturesque ocean views, award-winning seafood, quality wines and some of the best and brightest well-trained service in the biz. We couldn’t be more infatuated.
Our love letter to Stokehouse could easily reach the word count of a novella, but we’ll stick to the important reasons why this historic St Kilda restaurant is our crowned Legend of the Year. It’s housed family birthdays, anniversaries and every celebration in between since 1990. It’s gone through fire and brimstone (quite literally, in the case of the 2014 fire) to keep its menu offerings fresh and produce-driven amidst the fast-moving trends of a city deliriously obsessed with the new. And it’s never sacrificed on quality or ethics, even when times were tough.
Fast forward to today, and multiple renovations later, Stokehouse still stands tall and proud, as immovable against time as it is against the roaring waves at its feet. No matter when you book in, you’ll always find a sommelier who’ll serve you the perfect drink you’re craving. Whatever the weather’s temper, every nook and table here tends to make paradise feel well within reach. And the menu’s seasonal approach to modern Aussie fare consistently caters to a range of tastes, with crowd-pleasing favourites and an unshakeable focus on execution. As far as seafood restaurants in Melbourne go, there’s nothing else quite like it.
This year alone, the Stokehouse team showed generous support for some of our city’s best chefs through a series of exclusive hosted dinners, and head chef Jason Staudt has fast risen as a world leader in seafood sustainability. Most notably, the meal we enjoyed at Stokehouse outranked much of the best we’ve had all year. Legend? There’s no other way to describe such an institution.
Thank you, Stokehouse. For the special memories we’ve made under your roof, for your inspiring commitment to the environment, and for making us feel beachy, breezy and carefree even when the hustle of Melbourne living doesn't. You’re a destination for romance, exceptional seafood and priceless family get-togethers, and a sublime panacea to wintry, wearying days.
Stay tall and proud, and keep rising from strength to strength – Melbourne’s so much better for it.
Read our full review of Stokehouse here.