St Kilda area guide: the best things to do according to a local

For British expats desperate for the golden-fried comfort foods from back home, Northern Soul (6 Inkerman St) is a godsend. The fish and chips are a winner, better yet with the shop’s authentic sides like housemade chippy gravy, real malt vinegar and salty ‘tato scallops. And make sure you try the spice bag – a fragrant mix of fried chicken and chips tossed in Sichuan spices, served with a moreish curry sauce and prawn crackers. 

For another taste of Britain, head to the Lion and the Wombat (107 Grey St). This welcoming neighbourhood boozer shines a warm and fuzzy light on classic pub comforts, from gravy-soaked Yorkie puddings to Pimm’s.

Manu of Manu’s Bistro (17 Fitzroy St) took the plunge by opening at the beginning of Melbourne’s first lockdown, thinking he would ease into his new venture after working as head chef at some of the world’s top restaurants. Needless to say, his homemade international cuisine has been exceedingly popular – choose from herb-scented gnocchi with roasted butternut squash and walnuts, authentic Sri Lankan lamb curry with freshly grilled roti or a Mexican corn fritter burger, among many, many options. The one-man band makes the entire menu by himself and bakes fresh bread and other goodies from scratch every morning.

Blu Oyster Co (45A Fitzroy St) is another St Kilda fave, shucking and serving fresh Blackman Bay oysters and Mooloolaba prawns to order and eat on the spot or take home for dinner. Pick up a dozen to enjoy on St Kilda Beach at sunset, with your drink of choice from St Kilda Cellars next door.

If it’s silver service you’re after, St Kilda also delivers in spades. Melbourne fine-dining institution Café Di Stasio (31 Fitzroy St) blends exceptional service with its gritty Fitzroy Street charm as part of restaurateur Rinaldo Di Stasio’s exploration of “Italianality”, creating an ambience you will find nowhere else in Melbourne. Similarly, Stokehouse (30 Jacka Blvd) offers excellent Australian-inspired beachfront fare, with an awarding-winning wine list to match.

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Stepping through the doors of the Walrus (Ground Floor, 9 Inkerman St) is like crossing a threshold into a golden, warm oasis. It stands as a testament to the simple pleasures of fresh oysters and good wine. It's the kind of place that encourages lingering, where one glass easily turns into two, and a quick bite evolves into a full evening's indulgence. 

Little Prince Wine (2 Acland St) has filled a gaping hole in St Kilda’s foodie scene with its boutique cellar and gourmet deli options. The contemporary wine bar and bottle shop form part of the fully renovated Prince Hotel – if you want to try all it has to offer, you can even book an overnight stay.

Fondly known by all as the Espy, everyone has a story about their time(s) at St Kilda’s Hotel Esplanade (11 The Esplanade). Since reopening in late 2018, the Espy has again become a vortex in St Kilda, drawing all who visit in for an afternoon or evening of entertainment. Whether you’re dropping in for a sunset cocktail, catching a gig or indulging in the flavourful Cantonese cuisine of Mya Tiger, there is no pub quite like The Espy.

Oozing moody period-era charm with its original art deco décor, St LuJa’s (9 Fitzroy St) killer selection of carefully curated cocktails is complemented by an extensive whiskey list; pick your poison and then pick a table on the street to watch the sunset on St Kilda’s palm trees. 

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Pick up a fresh loaf of bread or buttery pastry to enjoy with your coffee at Rye + Dough (149 Fitzroy St), St Kilda’s popular artisan bakery that bakes everything from organic European and Australian ingredients daily.

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The St Kilda Esplanade Market is a popular year-round attraction, drawing artists and makers from all over Australia to display their work and promote their wares, from jewellery and original clothing to olive oils and other gourmet food products. Successfully operating since 1970, the market is a must if you’re in the area on a Sunday. 

If you want to spoil your fur babies, look no further than Since Paws (151A Fitzroy St), home to quirky and boutique pet products, including cactus-shaped cat scratchers and avocado-shaped dog beds. You can also book your dogs and cats in for grooming services.

Specialising in bringing the people of St Kilda items they never knew they needed for the past 24 years, Urban Attitude (152 Acland St) is a one-stop gift shop filled with novelty items and limited-edition collector pieces. While Captain Planet air fresheners and SpongeBob SquarePants socks make perfect stocking fillers, you’ll also find hilarious greeting cards to suit any of your friendships and an extensive range of eco-friendly homewares.

You’re bound to find a bargain at the Sacred Heart Mission Op Shop (87 Grey St) or Salvos Stores St Kilda (116 Carlisle St), with both regularly replenished with pre-loved furniture and clothing. 

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St Kilda's historic pier has just had a major glow-up, undergoing a huge $53 million redevelopment. The new features include a swanky curved walkway, increased capacity, better views of the surrounding bay and city skyline, improved accessibility for people with disabilities, new and improved toilets and tiered seating. 

Australia’s oldest theme park, Luna Park, opened its doors to its first visitors in 1912 and has since welcomed millions of excited people through Mr Moon’s giant smiling mouth. The heritage-listed Great Scenic Railway wooden rollercoaster (which inspired the famous Cyclone rollercoaster at Coney Island in Brooklyn, New York) remains the heart of the park, providing riders the best (and most exhilarating) views of Port Phillip Bay, especially at sunset. 

Opposite Luna Park, the Palais Theatre makes up the other half of St Kilda’s iconic duo. Built in 1927 as a pivotal aspect of the suburb’s seaside entertainment precinct, the Palais’ recent refurbishment ensures its hallowed stage hosts the world’s best entertainers for generations to come. It would be remiss to visit St Kilda without visiting the duo, if only for a photo. 

Then there's the St Kilda Ferry. Embarking on its maiden voyage across Port Phillip Bay to Williamstown in 2016, and offering a cool vantage point towards Melbourne’s CBD, the Coastal Flyer has proven popular among day-trippers and those wanting to escape Melbourne’s heaving road traffic. 

To witness something really special, head to the end of the St Kilda pier to the St Kilda breakwater shortly after sunset any night of the year. There you may be lucky to spot St Kilda’s colony of more than 1,000 little penguins (St Kilda Penguins), standing on top of the rocks or waddling from one side of the breakwater to the other. Remember to keep your distance and turn the flash off your camera.

If you’re craving some drama, Theatre Works (14 Acland St) has been sharing powerful and culturally relevant performances with the people of Melbourne from an old Parish hall in St Kilda for the past 40 years. Check out what's showing right now via the website.

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St Kilda Festival

The legendary free and all-ages music festival returns in February with more live music, family entertainment and community activations. St Kilda Festival has been lighting up the inner-city waterfront since 1980 to widespread acclaim. In the past couple of years, the festival introduced a new format, spreading the good times and sweet tunes across two days.  

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