We all know the meaning of hidden gem, an arguably overused phrase in the Melbourne culinary zeitgeist. But what’s the term for a venue that’s exposed but not widely known, existing right beneath your nose without due recognition?
Perhaps we can dub it Wasshoi. For eight years, the sumibiyaki (chargrilled meat) bar has existed right in the centre of Prahran Market, led by Ikeui Arakane (otherwise known as Kinsan) and his son. For years, it flew under our radar, the draw of bratwurst and gozleme a greater sell.
Perhaps it's because market goers are time-poor and overstimulated. The beauty of Wasshoi is not glaringly apparent at first glance, but it deserves some time set aside to truly appreciate it.
That’s what we do when we settle into a spot at the bench on a bustling Saturday afternoon. After ordering at the counter and receiving the yuzu-shaped table number, it’s a gamble whether you’ll be able to snag a seat but the casual nature of the eatery makes turnover pretty quick.
We're lucky to snag a spot right in front of the kitchen, if you can call it that. It’s primarily a charcoal grill that gets used to torch thinly sliced beef kalbi, twice-cooked beef brisket, hefty chunks of pork belly and slow-cooked chicken fillet. Yes, you can take your order away if there’s a queue to sit but watching the chefs expertly wield the flame is all part of the fun.
Proteins can be served as a donburi (Japanese-style rice bowl) or turned into a sandwich made, somewhat surprisingly, with crusty tiger rolls. Created in the Netherlands and popularised by Vietnam, the rolls are an unconventional but perfect choice with a sturdy enough crust to hold up to the fillings.
We try one with brisket plus housemade kimchi, yuzu and chilli-spiked mayo and a sweet soy glaze made from “spice with fruit”. The brisket is exactly what you’d want – tender and fatty but not overly so – we just wish there was a little bit more to fill out the bread roll.
The beef tsukune, a patty made with beef mince and tofu, catches our attention. It’s served on a bed of rice with the same condiments as the roll plus a few slices of cucumber, iceberg and tomato like a deconstructed burger. The patty tastes more like a meatloaf than a traditional burger but there’s nothing wrong with that – the tofu adds a bit of bounce and lightness while the chargrilled beef and fruity soy glaze melt everything together deliciously.
The traditional combo of soy sauce, sugar, mirin and sake often used to dress donburi can sometimes err on slightly too rich but the spice and acidity of Wasshoi’s rendition is just right. It goes down well with a cup of Kochi yuzu juice, though there’s also beer and a pretty impressive sake range given the pint-sized space.
At Wasshoi, it seems, the more you look, the more there is to love.
If the promise of lunch and a drink for under $20 isn’t enough reason to visit, the fact that such a tiny, unassuming market stall can deliver such big flavours should be.