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It feels ironic, almost cruel, that it’s a blistering 40-degrees when we visit Tzaki, which translates to “fireplace” in Greek. The Yarraville newcomer is named for the blazing hearth at its centre – the tool chef-owner Alex Xinis uses to prepare nearly every dish on the menu, roasting octopus and smoking saganaki as 15 diners sit around him and watch.
Despite the heat, the restaurant is packed. Perhaps it’s the warmth radiating from within that attracts people. When the hostess hesitated over whether there was space for two walk-ins, Xinis stepped in to personally usher us in with front-row spots at the counter.
The menu is concise with a balanced mix of vegetable and meat-forward dishes. No matter where your preferences lie, the psomi (flatbread) is an excellent starting point. We weren’t asked if we wanted the optional $5 red pepper and feta butter, but it arrived anyway – a small faux pas that turned out to be a blessing. The bread alone is exceptional with its chewy, doughy interior and blistered, herb and oil-slicked crust. But the butter is a revelation with the sharp tang of feta and sweet acidity of roasted capsicum spun into a perfectly spreadable accompaniment.
Another standout is the revithia, inspired by a dish from Athens institution Diporto. It appears deceptively simple: a brothy mix of chickpeas and carrots, finished in the oven. But the alchemy of heat, fat, and time leaves the chickpeas impossibly tender, succumbing to the gentlest press of a fork. Mash them slightly as we did and you’ll have the perfect topping for flatbread not dissimilar to the warm, chunky musabbaḥa eaten throughout the Levant.
Then there’s the proteins. Fire and meat are natural companions, and skipping this section would be a missed opportunity unless you’re vegetarian, in which case there are still plenty of options. Among the highlights: ham glazed with Metaxa (a Greek brandy), Blue Eye baked with potato crisps, and a pair of smoky lamb cutlets, fat perfectly rendered while maintaining just enough moisture, finished in molasses and served on a bed of yoghurt.
Dishes arrive quickly, encouraging you to order progressively rather than all at once – a strategy worth employing to ensure you save room for dessert. Chief among them is the burnt feta cheesecake, similar to its Basque cousin with a softer, more custardy consistency. The salty-sour tang of sheep’s cheese and lime zest are a clever twist on a dish that can sometimes feel predictable. Much like the feta pepper butter, Xinis takes something familiar and gives it an refreshing edge.
In Greece, the blended iced coffees known as frappes are a lifesaver on a hot day, so it felt only fitting to end with one. Tzaki’s off-menu version pairs espresso with whipped milk of your choice and a dusting of cocoa powder, preparing us, just barely, for the sweltering heat outside. It may have been even warmer inside than out, but the care and craft that so clearly define Tzaki’s ethos are hard to step away from.