Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
On the occasion a restaurant with national cult status makes its move to Melbourne, our enthusiasm isn’t always instantaneous. Sure, Sydney might rave on about a particular Italian lunch spot or buzzy bar crew, but does that mean it will be a surefire hit here in Victoria? Not necessarily. It’s with open minds my partner and I hit the road to visit the new Totti’s from hospo supergroup Merivale – 12 months young on the ground level of the Lorne Hotel, and the first interstate outpost for the Bondi-based brand.
We know the abridged version of the Totti’s story: this is fun, flavour-packed Italian fare that doesn’t take itself too seriously, with a glam roll call of cocktails and wood-fired flatbread that’s (supposedly) so good it’s gone viral on social media. We’re ready to see – and taste – if it all lives up to the hype.
The host is warm and welcoming and we’re escorted to a table by the open window. There’s a cruisy al fresco feeling to the space, despite the fact we’re technically sitting inside. The eatery itself is airy and modern, though there’s a hint of traditional Italian trattoria about it too, evident in long salami links that hang by the bar and handsome wooden chairs. You probably wouldn’t want to walk in wearing bathers and thongs, but true to Lorne’s vibe, the overall impression is easygoing and relaxed. I can see myself slipping in for a cocktail and a plate of antipasti, post-swim.
We settle in and start with cocktails: a signature Totti’s Margarita and Iper Paradiso. The Margarita – a summery concoction of Chili Olmeca Altos Plata, fruit, geranium and basil – is like a watermelon-flavoured Chupa Chup in a glass with a spicy snap on the back palate. The Iper Paradiso is a silky lemonade for grown-ups, all citrus and pineapple, swirling under a foamy aquafaba lid that’s flecked with thyme leaves. Both are gentle and sweet enough to be crowd-pleasers, but they’re slick and well balanced at the same time.
It’s a sunny start for the moment we’ve all been waiting for: the arrival of the star of the show, that astonishingly good flatbread. And it really is. It comes out like an inflated whoopee cushion, and we’ve selected three different antipasti to ferry on top into our mouths. There’s no other way to commence a meal at Totti’s, but still, the result far surpasses our expectations.
Yes, one dish is just plain ol’ red peppers, but when cooked right, it can only be described as a religious experience. Sweet, juicy and plump with the subtlest hint of char, they’re some of the tastiest I’ve had in my life. Another plate of mozzarella is encrusted with golden bottarga, and the Italian milk weeps from inside just the way it’s supposed to. The salty saline edge married with the nutty and pleasantly chewy sponge of the bread is holy moses levels of greatness. Ok, we get it now.
The third accompaniment to the bread we’ve opted for is a bowl of tomino, a gummy, gooey cheese from the Piedmont heavens, enclosing baked cloves of garlic. It’s an unbeatable pairing with not only the bread, but also the glass of amber wine from Margaret River we’ve chosen, which contributes to a miraculous illumination of all that wild tomino funk. If you’ve never tried this cheese before, that’s a shame. But if you’ve never paired it with an excellent white wine, there’s no other way to describe it: you’re missing out on a bucket list experience.
By now, we’re well in the swing of things, and the friendly down-to-earth service only further buoys us along. It’s hard to choose a pasta dish for our next course. This is very good Italian, after all, and each option looks so damn good. We settle on a milk-braised pork and chilli campanelle, and the prawn reginette alla vodka, of course. The one thing that sets this Totti’s apart is the fresh Victorian seafood.
The pork pasta is rich, salty, spicy and creamy all at once, leaving an incredible umami aftertaste. But it’s the prawn pasta that captures my heart. The knobbled pasta looks like a bunch of barnacles, and the thick velvet of the wonderfully sweet and savoury tomato sauce is salty and seafood-like without being fishy. Just perfect.
Tread carefully here. The pastas may comprise your second course only, but the thick and heady unctuous sauces cling to the pasta like their lives depend on it, and you could easily walk away happily now. We had to cancel our fish fillet main, for we were too full and satisfied to possibly consider taking another bite. Greedy souls.
In any case, it’s a blessing that Lorne’s main beach is just across the road – after so many helpings of fat-laden carbs, a walk is in order – and we depart the eatery to take a stroll along the foreshore. But we find after about 20 minutes, we can’t get our minds off the Neapolitan ice cream sandwich we’d spotted on the menu – so we go back for it. Can they do takeaway so we can enjoy it out in the sun? They certainly can, and it comes in a cardboard box with us, no questions asked. After a rich dinner, it’s a nostalgically simple and sweet dessert that hits the spot.
This may be a Totti’s establishment but it’s the relaxed service that makes this eatery unabashedly Lorne. Not only did we love our experience, I want to have my next birthday dinner here. Totti’s, you’ve stolen our hearts, hook, line and sinker.
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.