Opened by former Rice Paper Sister chef Ross Magnaye with a couple of chef compadres, Serai’s fire-based cooking riffs on his Filipino heritage while playing with the idea of authenticity. The lechon cleaves closest to the original source material: roasted free-range pig is all crackle and squish, enlivened by the tropical addition of pineapple in the spicy-sweet palapa sauce. But elsewhere, Magnaye deviates from the script more. Like with the ‘McScallop’, a cheeky riposte to the golden arches starring a single fried scallop doused in deliriously rich crab fat sauce sandwiched in a toasted pandesal bun. Or the 'Kare Kare' hashbrown, which takes another staple of the fast-food behemoth and adds a fire-roasted peanut sauce, plenty of herby zing and a blizzard of salted duck yolk.
The increased prominence of Filipino food in Melbourne is largely a long overdue corrective – the third-largest Asian diaspora in Australia has always had a strong presence in the nation’s cultural fabric, but finally the culinary landscape is developing apace alongside the Filipino-Australian population’s growth.
Literacy around Filipino dishes is quickly growing among non-Filipinos – dishes like sisig, lechon kawali and halo halo are gaining a foothold in people’s food lexicons, while Filipino cuisine’s multifaceted influences – from Spanish to Chinese – are garnering heightened levels of appreciation.
Every corner of Melbourne has a go-to Filipino restaurant, from the CBD to Sunshine, Werribee and Dandenong. Below are a few of our favourites.