Though you can now enjoy subtler, lighter broths as part of the shop's brand new Tanrei series, it's mainly all about the tonkotsu broth at Hakata Gensuke: a satin-rich pork bone elixir that changes the lives of first-timers and innocent tourists in Japan forever. Try the black tonkotsu for a creamy pork bone soup with a garlicky and black sesame kick, or confront the spicy wrath of the God Fire ramen if you dare. You can customise everything from the toppings and noodle texture to the saltiness and abundance of spring onion. There are now outlets in Carlton, Hawthorn and QV too, but we reckon the OG on Russell St is the best. Fun fact: this tiny spot took out top gong in our Best Bang for Buck category at the 2015 Time Out Food Awards.
The basis of any self-respecting bowl of ramen is the happy union of broth, noodles and toppings. But essential to a good swallow is the tare; not unlike the mirepoix in a soup, this is the shio (salt), shoyu (soy) or miso base that gives ramen its distinct flavour profile. With this in mind, we slurped our way through Melbourne’s finest ramen purveyors to pick the best of the bunch.