Tank

Tank makes a very attractive bolognaise-free proposition amongst Lygon Street’s wall-to-wall Italian stallions. It’s a fresh, bright, pared-back space lit with an azure-tiled communal table and a display cabinet of fresh seafood. Tank’s classic fish and chips are a winner. Mild, sweet flathead is veiled in a pale straw-coloured tempura batter that’s so light and grease-free you’ll forget it’s deep fried; chips are dusted with an addictive herb salt and a flurry of tiny, deep-green fried parsley leaves. A notably tangy tartare seals the deal. Add on a fresh and herbaceous cabbage and carrot coleslaw as a foil to the fry.