Public Inn (CLOSED)

Castlemaine’s original fire station, dating from 1906, is now home to the convivial warm glow of Public Inn, the restaurant bookend to its sibling venue rePUBLIC café (look for it on the other side of the heavy red drapery). Food wanders the globe while remaining grounded in the region. Wallaby tartare, gussied up with pickled walnuts and cornichon, tabasco jelly and golden beetroot “yolk”, is seasoned with native wattleseed and lemon myrtle, while lamb three ways features braised belly, neck and labne-marinated cutlet with minted peas and sugar snaps. All is peachy on the drinks front, too: as a proud member of one of Victoria’s premier wine regions, Public Inn pours local vino from barrels sourced direct from producers, freeing diners to taste widely.