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In a city where many restaurants lean toward curated aesthetics and trendy branding, this lovely new restaurant serves hospo the old-fashioned way. Think homestyle Italian with large servings, zero pretences, and, of course, carbs on carbs on carbs.
Nestled in Prahran, but crucially, on Malvern Road instead of bustling Chapel Street, Officina Gastronomica Italiana (or simply Officina) exudes rustic charm and humility and screams of 'local fave'.
Owner Claudio Casoni previously operated espresso bar Officine Zero in the space, but after commandeering the store next door, he opened Officina. Not only has it doubled in size, but it has also doubled in offerings. Where Officine Zero was a daytime café haunt, Officina is a triple threat, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.
After scouring the menus online to decide which meal would best showcase Officina's strengths, I decided on dinner (pasta is best enjoyed before bed). Although it's a sunny evening, the temperature hasn't clocked on, so it's still chilly. As a result, I'm grateful that we're seated inside, even though Officina boasts one of Melbourne's finest courtyards.
In the counter, I spy deli meats jostling shoulders with giant slabs of golden foccacia. There's also an extensive selection of wines, pantry goods and sandwiches — all available for takeaway.
Kicking things off with a cocky, the OGI Spritz blends elderflower liqueur and pet nat ($22) and a classic Limoncello Spritz ($22). Both are boozy and refreshing, and I can only imagine the joy of sipping on one of these bad boys in the courtyard come summer.
The focaccia ($7) is baked fresh daily and has a basil-infused EVOO for dipping. It's fluffy and soft, but I wish the crust were crispier. A starter of fried calamari ($24) arrives looking very blonde, but the batter is a good width against the tender meat, and with a healthy squeeze of lemon and a dunk of mayo, any fear of anemic batter is forgotten.
Vitello tonnato ($24) is my childhood favourite, and I'm thrilled to see it on the menu. I know looks aren't everything, but I audibly gasp when it arrives at the table. Blushing pink veal, caperberries, and pickled celery on a bed of tuna mayo creates a stunning contrast of flavours and textures. It's creamy, with acidic pops punctuated throughout to keep it vibrant and well-rounded. It's a stylish, modern interpretation of a dish that needs to be seen more often.
Aside from the food, Officinas's drawing card is its magnificent wine list. It's comprehensive, with drops primarily from the Emilia-Romagna region. My glass of Fattoria San Lorenzo Le Oche ($18) is floral and balanced, and with Italian music crooning over the speakers, I feel as though my European summer has come early.
Aside from pasta, the mains are limited. There's a whole flounder ($54), a Gippsland beef tagliata ($65), and an eggplant parm ($34). We decide to grab the latter dish and focus our energy on the pasta, and oh boy, am I glad we did this.
The entrees are enjoyable, but if you're getting one thing at Officina, it needs to be the pasta. The rigatoni with slow-braised Wagyu beef ragu and pecorino sardo ($38) is rich, savoury, and deeply satisfying. The pasta is chewy and coated in the perfect ratio of glossy tomato sauce and tender meat.
The cacio e pepe ($34) is another standout. The tagliolini noodles, beautifully coated in a peppery, cheesy sauce, deliver a nutty, decadent bite. These pastas aren't pretentious; they're hearty, satisfying, and best enjoyed unapologetically — sauce dripping down your chin and all.
Finishing off with a glass of Tiramisu ($12), I think it might be illegal to finish an Italian meal any other way. It hits all the right notes.
Officina is more earnest in its approach to hospitality than the sultry pasta bars that have been popping up around town as of late. While many newer establishments focus on creating a moody, trend-driven atmosphere, Officina embraces genuine warmth and authenticity.
Is there finer Italian fare in Melbourne? Yes. But not by much and not necessarily with the same sincerity. Officina is where you go when you want to prioritise a happy stomach over flashy gimmicks because, at the end of the day, that's what it's all about.