Melbourne's sandwich resurgence has been gaining momentum for years. Without signs of slowing down, the widespread trend has reached Torquay, in the form of a Mediterranean-inspired deli. Mortadeli started as former travel agent Jake Cassar's lockdown hobby and as a way of staying connected with his globetrotting foodie passion – think Mediterranean flavours mixed with a bodega influence.
Initially starting as a 40-square-metre café, the venue has since expanded across the piazza it's located in to provide Torqueyans with a full alimentari-style grocer experience. The deli offers a comprehensive selection of frozen, fresh and tinned delights. There's nostalgic energy to both spaces. Compulsory deli-style orange and white checkerboard floors along with sherbet yellow shelves create a retro ambience that somehow perfectly complements the packaging of many of the smallgoods on offer. This is a pre-picnic or charcuterie board must- visit, with staples like Tom Sarafian's hummus, Chappys Chips, imported cheeses and pâtés.
The menu is written on a chalkboard propped out the front. Two breakfast sandwiches are available until 11 am, and the real magic starts with the lunch menu. Six sandwiches of varying bread, ingredients and flavour profiles – there are all the classics like pastrami on rye, meatball sub and smoked hot dog. One of its mainstays, the Continental Deli Sub, is a who's-who of deli meats. Mortadella, ham, sopressa and 'nduja are generously layered with buttery provolone cheese and briny Spanish guindilla (peppers). It's spicy, meaty and will give you the cross-section of your dreams.
You simply have to order the Hobz-Biz-Zjet, a sandwich that proudly speaks to Cassar's Maltese heritage. Hobz-Biz-Zjet translates to “bread with oil”, which is the foundation of this delightfully simple sarnie. Impossibly fluffy white bread from Pane Di Matteo (a Geelong supplier) is crammed full of tuna chunks, olives, pickled red onion and EVOO. The crowning glory of this sandwich is the kunserva (which is a Maltese tomato paste). It’s sweet, slightly tangy, and gloriously vibrant. It's a deliciously fresh change from the rich and cheesy grilled sandwiches you may be accustomed to.
As Cassar originally hails from Melbourne he understands the importance of good coffee. Beans are sourced from Everyday Coffee and will satisfy any out-of-towner. Alternatively, if you want the true European experience, alcohol is served from midday. Spritzes and wines are available on tap, and pending warmer weather, Mortadeli will reintroduce its “aperitivo hour”. This means charcuterie and cheese plates with produce from the deli section. You can wash down with the “Ginnie”, which sees Four Pillars olive leaf gin mixed with a Maltese bitter orange soda.
In a truly bittersweet moment, Cassar is about to do a full overhaul of the sandwich menu. After being "re-inspired" on a recent trip to Europe, Cassar is looking to bring some of that energy to the current menu. He’s reassured us that it will still be sandwich focused and the Continental and Hobz-Biz-Zjet will be sticking around; the other items will be on a rotating special base. If the current menu is anything to go by, the new one is sure to be a banger.