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On a weekend stay in West Gippsland, you’re bound to hear about Messmates Dining at least a dozen times. I’ve booked a table at the smart new Warragul restaurant well in advance of a trip, having heard of its stellar reputation back home in Melbourne. But once I arrive in town, an array of locals – the diversity of which spans a gardener, an independent brewer and a shop owner – are each quick to direct me to Messmates just in case I’ve forgotten to include it in my itinerary. Clearly, this is a dining experience that’s caused a bit of a stir in the area.
Feeling dangerously close to sleep after a couple’s Turkish hammam and massage experience over at Brandy Creek Day Spa (any more bliss and we risk falling into a narcotic stupor), my partner and I swan into Messmates’ cosy space, glad to find our table nestled at the back of the restaurant. The lighting is warm and dim, bottles line the walls and the entire place simmers with wine bar sophistication. An open prep table outside the kitchen allows us to watch the chef perform the finishing touches on each stunning yet simple dish.
But what even is a ‘messmate’ anyway? Though perhaps it’s common knowledge for Aussie-born folks (this writer hails from Scotland), I’m unsure. It’s the first question I ask our host, the friendly Chris Odrowaz, who runs the sleek venue alongside his partner Jess, his sister Jodie and Jodie’s partner Michael. They’re a tight-knit family and business quartet bringing some serious hospo expertise to the town.
A messmate, we’re told, is a species of tree that’s endemic to southeastern Australia. It’s commonly known as messmate stringybark or Tasmanian oak. It makes sense the restaurant is named after its local plant specimens. After all, the menu is one that zeroes in on home, too: a celebration of Gippsland’s produce. This is bountiful country, so much so that it’s often referred to as the ‘food bowl of Australia’.
As we sip on a glass of creamy sparkling each, a perusal of the menu suggests inspiration from European cuisine. There’s chicken liver parfait with pear jelly and sourdough crackers; pumpkin and brown butter gnocchi with oregano and pecorino; cured pork ‘noix de jambon’ with fennel grissini; and a smattering of other dishes all categorised as either snacks, small substantial or sides. Nothing on the short menu looks over the top but all is appealing; I get the sense that this will be a kitchen that allows ingredients to taste of what they are. To start, we love the house-made pickled vegetables to eat alongside our cultured butter and bread.
Burrata with fennel and fermented beans is one of the specials and it’s yet another impressive example of fresh food that buzzes with aliveness. Many food commentators decided to declare burrata as ‘cancelled’ last year, on account of its predictability and ubiquitous presence across many menus all at once. But Messmates’ wildly flavourful rendition is proof that burrata can be a showstopper in the right hands – especially when paired with a wine list that celebrates cult hit winemakers from the region. We’re told in thirst-quenching detail about the pinot noir from William Downie and the remarkable chardonnay from Patrick Sullivan, wonderful commentary to listen to as we mop up the delicious, creamy mess and sip on the fruits of each producer’s labour.
The third dish we share is tortellini in a shallow chicken broth, each handmade pasta parcel filled with a punchy mix of mortadella and cheese. Is it good? It’s gorgeous – a soupy distillation of smoke, funk and savouriness, all in one bite. If this is what traditional tortellini in brodo from Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region tastes like, send me on a plane at once. Or let me just stay in Warragul, actually, for the final dish of our meal is the highlight.
It’s a half-roast chook dressed generously with a piquant red Gascony butter. Due to its garlicky, sweet paprika vibes, it reminds me a bit of peri peri, while the chicken itself is so very, very tender and juicy. Served alongside the crushed and buttered potatoes we’ve chosen as our side, it’s an ultra-satisfying dish to end the night on.
Returning to Messmates could and would be a different experience in the future, since the seasonal food menu rotates, as does a compelling line-up of tap beers. The restaurant’s wine collection will shift and grow, and there are cocktails we’d love to try on our next visit . But that’s what makes Messmates such an important addition to the Gippsland community. It’s a reflection of a food culture that’s all about connection over time – to land, local producer networks and the changing of seasons.