When imagining the perfect restaurant location, the base of a high-rise office building isn't exactly top of the list. Arriving at Lucia, nestled on the ground floor of the Eleven Eastern in South Melbourne – just a stone's throw from the Princess Highway – sets off a few alarm bells. It's not a question of aesthetics; the space is undeniably stunning: spacious, plush, and breezy. Yet, the unmistakable "hotel restaurant" vibe raises the concern that this might be a case of style over substance.
Luckily, Lucia proved me wrong in mere seconds. You see, the essence of Lucia is its exceptional staff and impeccable food.
Take the "two-sip" Oyster Martini ($19) – a mix of Never Never Oyster Shell Gin, Cocchi Americano, and waxflower. As it's served, the waiter conspiratorially quips, "It's been a long day; better make it three sips," while adding an extra glug of the pre-made concoction. Consider me charmed. If the oyster shell gin weren't enough to live up to the Martini's name, the accompanying Coffin Bay oyster with basil oil and finger lime certainly seals the deal.
Hospitality veterans Frank Ciorciari and Anthony Silvestre have reimagined fine dining with Lucia, bringing it back to its roots. Here, you can forget about degustations or hushed dining rooms where speaking above a whisper feels taboo. Instead, Lucia delivers all the flair and showmanship of upscale dining in an approachable and relaxed setting.
Under chef Jordan Clavaron’s direction, any fears of flash without substance evaporate as our dry-aged Wagyu beef tartare, semolina crisps, and egg yolk ($30) arrives. Reminiscent of a pani puri or just the puris, the semolina crisps are hollow, crispy spheres designed to be cracked and filled with tartare. The result is a crunchy, robustly acidic and creamy bite that reminds me that Melbourne does steak tartare better than Paris (fight me). Serving the dish in a hollowed bone with a tiny, criminally cute bottle of Tabasco flirted with gimmicky but achieved the playful landing.
The potato rosti with comte cheese custard ($12) and the prawn, basil and brik pastry ($15) are classic crowd-pleasers elevated by technical perfection. The former is crispy and creamy in all the right places, and the latter is plump and sweet with a satisfying blend of textures. The prawn, in particular, is a prime example of clever cooking. The pastry is light enough to champion the delicate meat without overpowering it, making me wonder why this isn't the standard as opposed to the usual battered option.
Lucia is the kind of place you'd bring your boss or your fussy in-laws – where the food is accessible, not demanding, and always expertly executed and beautifully presented. The bluefin tuna, ibérico jamon cream, finger lime and egg yolk dressing ($35) champions this ethos. The tuna is plump, and with the umami jamon cream and decadent dressing, it is, quite simply, out of this world. Similarly, the lobster taco with avocado and tequila lemongrass dressing ($15) displays Clavaron's ability to showcase ingredients in a fun, sophisticated way without getting bogged down in smoke and mirrors. A paper-thin slice of kohlrabi replaces the taco, providing the necessary crunch without masking the delicate lobster flavour.
Picking mains is difficult, but our choice of the Aylesbury duck with black pudding, beetroot and lilly pilly ($58) is another win. It's a beautiful dish with fine dining-appropriate smears and brunoise. The duck is rich and tender, and paired with the black pudding, it's a robust, decadently savoury mouthful that makes it hard to believe it came from such refined-looking plating.
The spring greens with preserved lemon and parmesan ($16) are fresh and crunchy, and the pommes frites with thyme salt ($12) are McPerfect.
No Italian meal is complete without pasta, so we opt for the daily special: pappardelle with tuna and anchovy crumb ($42). While the flavour is fantastic, the choice of pappardelle feels slightly off, as the rich sauce clings a little too heavily, tipping into “gluggy” territory.
Lucia’s 400-strong wine list includes a generous selection by the glass. The Unico Zelo "Jade and Jasper" Riverland fiano ($17) is light and vibrant, pairing beautifully with the smaller plates, while the Bodega Catena Zapata malbec ($17) offers spicy, juicy notes that perfectly complement the duck.
Dessert rarely tempts me, but I couldn’t resist the viral chocolate, bourbon, and coffee ($22). Before our entrées even arrived, I told the waitress to save us one. Its presentation lives up to the Instagram hype: bourbon coffee is poured over a meringue, creating hypnotic swirls before pooling at the base. It’s mesmerising to watch – and even better to eat.
At first glance, Lucia might seem like polished corporate dining – safe, stylish, and formulaic. But beneath the sleek façade lies a restaurant brimming with technical precision and genuine heart. It’s fine dining without the pretentiousness: creative, playful, and accessible. From start to finish, Lucia offers an experience that’s as relaxed as it is refined.