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It’s on a bitterly cold, rain-soaked winter’s day that my husband and I drive down the elm tree-lined entrance to All Saints Estate in Wahgunyah (about a three-hour drive from Melbourne), desperately needing food. Full disclosure: we were at a wedding the night before at nearby Di Bortoli Wines, and you could say we’re feeling a teeny bit seedy. But nothing a feast at this 19th-century castle can’t fix, right?
Built in 1864 by Scotsmen George Sutherland Smith and John Banks, this famous fortress was constructed using handmade bricks fired in the on-site kiln. With manicured hedges, flags atop each turret and a swag of wine-making awards, you could say it’s a little slice of grape-growing royalty in the middle of the Victorian bush. It’s also home to Kin, a modern Australian restaurant helmed by executive chef Jack Cassidy, and the main reason for my visit.
The interior of Kin – which was added as part of a multi-million dollar renovation in 2023 – is warm, bright and airy, even on such a miserable day. Neutral tones and timber accents dominate the space, while the exposed brickwork feels like a nice nod to the building’s heritage.
We find ourselves at a cosy booth, and the floor-to-ceiling windows allow for a glorious view as a downpour of sideways rain sweeps across the property. A waiter arrives with menus, ready to talk us through the two- and three-course options (priced at $85 and $105, respectively). I opt for the latter as dessert is a non-negotiable for me, while my husband decides on two courses under the proviso he can try the sweets. And as we’re driving home later, it’s wine by the glass, rather than the full matched pairing.
Once we’re settled in with the Estate riesling (me) and grenache (him – a drop so divine we bought a bottle to take home with us), a surprise round of bread and snacks arrives. Warm, fluffy and with just the right amount of crustiness, the housemade focaccia is a healing dish that washes away the sins of the night before. And it’s elevated to a god-tier level of deliciousness when dipped in the accompanying sweet cherry balsamic vinegar.
The snacks include two olives wrapped in bacon, topped with pickled shallots and served warm on a mini skewer, and a seared tuna tart. I eat them in that order, and it just feels right: the light freshness of the tuna is the perfect palate cleanser after the salty flavour bomb of the olive-and-bacon combo, which actually made me exclaim “Oh my god” out loud in surprise.
My entrée of Markwood mushrooms in a dashi broth is an earthy delight, and looks like something you’d find at a fairy’s garden party. The stock is poured in front of you for dramatic effect, and the intense umami flavour is enhanced by the richness of the mushies. I refrain from lifting the bowl straight to my mouth, instead scraping my spoon repeatedly to catch every last drop.
In front of my husband is a singular shell topped with a charred Chinese broccoli leaf. Lifting it reveals a generous loot of treasures: a scallop, thin slices of radish and a sprinkling of bright red pepperberries, all doused in a beurre blanc sauce. It’s almost too pretty to eat, but I swipe a mouthful and it sings of creaminess and butter with a tangy kick from the pepperberries.
I struggled to choose my main until our server nudged me towards the Murray cod. “All Saints is situated right on the banks of the Murray River,” she tells me, to further cement the decision. And boy oh boy, it does not disappoint – plated with a fermented black bean sauce and ginger-garlic crumb, the dish is a wonderful celebration of the region’s local bounty. The soft flesh of the fish falls apart under my fork, while the crispy skin adds some textural intrigue.
I catch a glimpse of the visual feast in front of my husband: some short ribs and a hasselback potato swimming in a pool of rich massaman sauce. The vibrancy of the colours – pale pink and mustard hues – match the flavours, with the meat juicy and tender, while the sauce packs an aromatic punch.
And we must take a moment for the accompanying sides: a serving of sweet carrots and roasted Brussels sprouts with pea cress and dijon dressing. Considered and comforting on such a chilly day, they add a homely touch to the meal.
I finish on the mille-feuille, which is interlaced with pillows of dark chocolate mousse and preserved raspberry jam. It’s sweet without being too lavish, but I wouldn’t mind a more generous helping of the choc-jam filling to balance out the layers of pastry. We’re even treated to some bonus petit fours, ensuring we finish our dining experience on the sweetest of notes.
My husband and I may not have a drop of royal blood between us, but we’ve feasted like a true king and queen at Kin. Between the top-notch service, castle setting and culinary offerings, it's certainly hard to fault. All hail this special jewel in Victoria’s dining crown.